원정 개요

Collet - 27 Oct 81

Question of time, 2 ways:
Kagmara Pass to Main peak to NE Ridge.
BC: 200m below pass = 5000m; arrived 13 Oct because only 9 porters from Jumla so very slow.

1) NE Ridge: very dangerous because of avalanches and rotten rock.
2) W Ridge: very long way to reach it and snow up to waist, 10 days minimum.

Went above BC for 5 hrs and reached 5200m on 12 Oct by Mr and Mrs Collet, Rodolphe Collet, Laserre and Simond. Then hopeless given time, shortage with flights fixed to Paris, so returned.

All well; no accidents, frostbite, illness.


Collet - 27 Oct 81

Impossible to go in Jagdulo valley to climb Sisne. No path, just wild jungle. Only way to Sisne is Swiss way via North Peak. Not any more interested in Sisne since planes impossible and access very long (in time) to South Peak.


Collet - 1 Oct 81

Fly to Jumla and then up Jagdulo Khola as far as possible to look at South Face of Sisne to climb it Oct 1982, then back down South to Garpung Khola to attempt Kagmara I.


BC at 5000m near Kagmara La
2 camps above BC at 5200 and 5600m
Route = North Face to NW Ridge, probably same as British women.

Leave KTM 2 Oct by charter to Jumla. 5 days to Jagdula. Recce 6 days (which is good for acclimatization). 2-3 days to Kagmara La. 4 days maximum to climb. An easy route.

Arrived BC 13-14 Oct, summit 18 Oct.
1 week to return to Jumla and from Jumla to KTM 27 Oct and leave 29 Oct
2 Sherpas above BC on climb. 6 or 7 (expedition cook) to BC.
Medical oxygen only.

Expedition has no name.