원정 개요

Szafirski & Korniszewski - 2 June 81

Climb was much more difficult than expected. Most difficult between C2 and C3: very sharp crazy ridge of snow and ice, very steep vertical snow. 3 weeks to climb at 40m per day. Technical difficulties greater higher up where also very steep and Grade 4 and difficulties.

28 April when route made to C3, good weather ended. Summiters had to wait in C5 extra day and night for good weather.

Poles had 6 climbers, Dr and leader. Others were photographer, driver and priest. Driver left from Machhapuchare BC, priest left after one week. Dr and leader were Polish Sherpas.

Should have made permanent camp between C2 and C3. 9 to 12 hours from C2 to C3 hanging glacier below C3. C4 was used only one night on way to top. Summiters went to middle summit only. Route of face was climbed.

No other summit attempts: too late, too bad weather and "we had not forces."

Doctor broken right arm from fall between C2 and C1 during evacuation. Route was safe, powder snow avalanches made difficult climbing and all tents after covered.

Oxygen medical only and kept in BC; no one used it.

Have studied another difficult but fine route up face via buttress between Bonington and Polish routes.

Want to name route John Paul II route if Vatican gives permission. Will arrive Rome 10 May and hope to see Pope. Church in Poland gave contribution. Priest will meet in Rome.

Priest member went back after 1 week because not well (heart probably).


Szafirski - 13 March 81

1 leader
6 climbers
1 doctor
1 driver
1 photographer
1 priest
--
11 members

No Sherpas above BC - too diffcult.

Route = South Face to route of Bonington route. BC same as Bonington 1970 about 4800-5000m, impossible to say how many camps. Main problem is descent from summit.

C3 about 7000m; from here can go nonstop to summit but impossible to descend same way without another camp or 2 more.

Szafirski arrived 9 March, waits now for others. Members arrive KTM 16 March and back soon at Bhairawa.

Oxygen medical only.
Polish Himalayan Expedition Annapurna I South Face.
Most difficult part above C3; maybe make C3 ABC.