원정 개요

Fr. Jannu Expedition - 18 May 83

French think Czech 1981 C5 and C6 should have been given higher altitudes; these camps, French believe, were actually at 6900-7000m and 7300m.


Chudy - 11 June 81

Route = SW Ridge, same as Czechs tried 1979 (definitely not same as French 1962). Actually all [routes] go summit itself from South Face to which ridges lead.

C4 to C5 long distance with 150m descent.

2 attempts from C5 to top. 2 members from C5 to site of French and Spain C5 on 19 May. 20 May to French and Spanish C6. 21st attempt to go to summit: R Galfy and Bakos reached 7500m in colouir.

20 May another party made C6 at 7300m. Bakos had fever and frostbite and went down on 22 and 23 May to BC. R Galfy stayed above. 22 May Divald and Vozarik from Czech C5 to French C6. 23 May at 5:00 am, R Galfy, Vozarik and Divald from French C6 to summit to at 12:40 pm and down to C5 (moved tent from French to C6 to French C5 at 7000m).

20 May Spanik, Chrenka and Martis started fixing rope drove Czech C6; 22nd reached well above 7500m but so tired, decided take a day's rest at Czech C5. But 23 May last day of favourable weather. Then snow covered camp and they went down instead. If not this turn in bad weather, at least 6 people [would have been] on top. Left BC 27 May. Bakos is Ok.

No serious frostbite. No oxygen used at all.


Galfy via Chudy - 1 April 81

North Face; if SW Ridge not being climbed by Spanish and agree, Czechs may go to SW Ridge; prefer ridge because this ridge was climbed in 1979 by Czechs but not to summit. 5 camps above BC, maybe 6th camp because top of 500m face is overhang of 20m and difficult at about 7150-7200m on this SW Ridge route. In BC 15-17 April.

1 Sherpa above BC at 4400m, then C1 will become ABC at 4800m but far from BC; this for SW Ridge.

5 weeks to scale Jannu via ridge; if must go to North Face, will follow Japanese route as far as C3, then try to make alternate route.

Oxygen medical only.
Leave KTM 2 April Birgunj-Biratnagar-Dharan.
1 day in Dharan; leave 4 April by road to Tamur River.