원정 개요

Galfy - 11 June 81

BC 19 April 5080m
C1 22 April 5200m
C2 24 April 5800m
C3 5 May 6650m
C4 17 May 7300m
C5 19 May 7900m
Summit by Psotka and Zahoransky

Route = 1980 Spring Japanese route and same as Doug Scott towards summit
Czech C2 = Japanese C1 (Japanese had much longer acclimatization period)

5 to 17 May: avalanche took away lot of fixed rope and other materials and rock band had to be fixed with rope. C2 destroyed also (but no one on it).

Rock band more difficult then expected because didn't expect water ice; otherwise route not more difficult than expected. Ice towers after avalanche became very dangerous.

No oxygen used at all.

No more men on summit because Radio Nepal forecast coming of monsoon. From 23 May was a week of very bad weather.

Left BC 25 May.


Shailendra Sharma - 25 May 81

2 members: Josef Psotka and Ludovit Zahoransky reached summit from North Face without oxygen on 20 May afternoon. Stayed on top 20 minutes and put Czech and Nepalese flags. Climbed from C4 (7900m/25,920 ft).


Oto Chudy, Jannu - 25 April 81

Czechoslovakian Kangchenjunga
BC 19 Apr = 5080m
C1 22 Apr = 5200m
C2 24 Apr = 5800m (C2 is almost the same as Scott/Karishi C1)
Minor health problems reported.


Galfy via Chudy - 1 April 81

North Face Japanese route generally with same changes in last 500m+.
BC at 5050m at Pangpema
5 camps above BC with C5 at 7800-7900m
1 Sherpa above BC
Oxygen taken but hope not to use
Arrived BC 17-19 April
5-6 weeks climb
Leave KTM 2 April to Dharan
Leave Tamur River 4 April