원정 개요

Al Burgess - 26 May 81

NE Ridge really catches wind
BC - 15,500 feet - about 8 April
C1 - 17,000 feet - 11 April
C2 - 18,400 feet - 13 April
(ABC) NE Col
C3 - ice cave at foot of spur - 23 April at 21,000 feet
(rest at BC between camps)
C4 - 23,000 feet - 5 May
C5 - 25,000 feet - 8 May put in place but not occupied.

Jones had dysentery most of the time. Elzinga then went home after realizing wouldn't be going to top. He had spent 3 nights at C4 and then left without saying anything before.

Gardner and Masters never went above 22,000 and never carried above 21,000, exhausted; so no one climbing high but Burgess twins; only one of season went to top from C5.

Sherpas went only to NE Col supplying fresh food; twins occupied C5 15 May after leaving NE Col on 12 May.

16 May rest day in C5 because of bad weather 2 previous days and not slept and needed rehydration. Planned to make C6 on 17th and top on 18th, but saw bad weather coming and were just weakening to spend more time, so went to top on 17th. Left C5 at 5:45 am - did not go usual away across snowfield because avalanche prone, so went longer way on ridge via false summits and had to be roped together. Got to top at 1:20 pm.

In descent terrible storm of wind driven snow. Reached C5 at 6:00 pm. "Really gripping descent" via ridge which had to be climbed but snow slope would have slab-avalanched. 18 May down to BC and left BC 21 May.

Had to do alpine-style because weather so unpredictable. No accidents or frostbite.


Gardner - 25 May 81

No C6. Held back by winds so Burgess went to top from C5 where they spent 2 nights holding down tents; they only summiters.

Much of time only 4 on mountain with Elzinga not acclimatizing and not eating (left expedition about 5 May) and Jones also stomach trouble and tied to BC.

No accidents. Others should arrive in KTM today or tomorrow.


Jones and Burgess - 13 March 81

3 camps drove NE Col - maybe ice cave somewhere which is safest place to be in avalanche.
2 Sherpas to Col only - to keep fresh vegetables coming.
Col = ABC
BC on Myagdi Glacier at 15,000 feet
No oxygen for climbing (looking for same for medical oxygen)
Leave KTM 15 March; 12-15 days to BC; there by April Fools day
6 weeks on mountain.


Adrian Burgess - 16 Feb 81

Route = NE Ridge, standard route
4 Canadians and 2 Burgess twins
Canadians little experience especially doctor and never at really high
altitude before.
2 Sherpas above BC to perhaps 20,000 feet.