원정 개요

Chandler & Bremer - 8 June 81

We put in 90 meters fixed rope whereas Japnanese had thousands of meters. Put in our 90 meters above 1st icefield and then serac fell and wiped it out.

Took 3 weeks to get on 3 camps in, 4th week equipment buried and had to scrounge for food in lost camps, pitons, lines, good goggles. This took technical aspects of climb out of question from and on C3, we went off from Czechs left and met North Ridge at end of a couloir at end of Col and thus met Scott route at about 7350m. Followed ridge/Scott route and put snow cave just below rock band at about 7600m where had to wait for better weather were now on 1/2 rations. Returned to C3 at 6500m where had tent.

Couple days rest then weather good. Returned to snow cave on Scott and continued on up this route but bivy bag had been buried in avalanche, and from high point about 8000m reached could see could see highly technical climbing ahead and need for protection of pitons, etc. and no bivy sack and cold feet literally so gave up.

Could have gone to Kangchenjunga summit with no trouble at all but too many watching and wanted to stick to rules.

Then had 2-1/2 days ratians and 2 fuel cartridges left and pretty worn out.

BC - 29 March - 5139m
C1 - 7 April - 5500m
C2 - 14 April - about 6000m
C3 - 29 April - 6500m

Arrived 2nd May took away cache at base of 1st ice cliff at 6350-6400m when men were in C2.

1st biv - 6900m - 7 May
2nd biv - 7200m - 8 May
3rd biv - 7350m - 8 May
4th biv - 7600m - 10 May

Down on 12 May to C3 because of storm. Started up again on 17 May and reached 3rd biv that day. On 18th passed 4th bivouac and made new bivouac at 7900m.

19 May - climbed snowfield to right and reached close to base of Kangchenjunga (never did reach rocks of Yalung Kang, would have taken 2-3 days more to Yalung Kang summit) at about 8000m and returned all way to C3.

Felt quite acclimatized and enjoyed being able to move freely and quickly on mountain.


Cherie B-K - 7 June 81

Returned Friday 5 June. Not successful but felt like good attempt, reached 8000m on shoestring. "Like to go back."

Arrived 1-2 May cooked own and Czech's food, fixed line and hardware 1 May between C2 and C3 (about same as Japanese).

Abandoned original route because avalanche consumed entire route (most high avalanche ever seen) so were on Japanese route: ice cliff done and Czech's caught up so went to North Col and onto big sugarloaf above Col to 2 snow gullies. Gullies 200 feet of rock which required fixed line and beyond capabilities at that time. Line and hardware gone in avalanche. Good weather then, turned back about 20 May.

Both Ok. Cheri some frostbite one toe, but will be Ok. No accidents.


Chris Chandler - 7 March 81

Number of possible routes - a rib on North Face. Direct on Japanese North Face 1980 Spring route to 3rd icefield and right to Yalung Kang summit. Depends on safety routes and other factors.

Will acclimatize on North Face direct route, then if not feasible to go to top this way, will come down and do alternate route.

BC at Pangpema and ABC at 5500m. A camp on face will be last camp, altitude not known.

Leave KTM Tuesday 10 March by bus to Dharan and thence on foot to Pangpema in 2 weeks from Dharan so arrive BC before 1 April. Summit attempt 1st 2 weeks in May.

1 Sherpa will help carry loads on face to 1st and only camp on face. No oxygen.

1981 Yalung Kang Expedition