원정 개요

5 members including 3 summiters - 26 May 81

BC - 11 April - 16,800 feet
C1 - 20 April - 18,000 feet
C2 - 24 April - 19,000 feet
C3 - 3 May - 20,000 feet
C4 - 13 May - 21,200 feet

14 May bivouac in snowhole at 22,000 by summit trio.

15 May to summit midday and back to C4; arrived C4 at 10:00 pm without fixed ropes climbing on flat section in bad snow conditions.

North Ridge - first 2 successes took right-hand spur and Aussies took an eastern spur. Route originally attempted by 1959 British (found old ropes and rusty pitons) for 1/3 of climb.

More difficult than expected due to snow conditions; much would have been different and perhaps easier in post-monsoon when would have been deeper snow.

Only one summit attempt:

1 not acclimatized
1 chest infection (McMahon)
3 left for summit attempt

No avalanche danger, no glacier
Approach to this route = safe route but bad weather and difficult climb
No accident, no frostbite


Pluth - 26 May 81

Summiters were Hall, Henderson and Macartney-Snape on 15 May
Only they are summit party; all in very good condition
5 arrived today; rest later today or tomorrow


McMahon - 26 March 81

Karen Robins has dysentery so she and McMahan fly to Lukla 30th and wait there for rest of expedition, who left this am for Kirantichap and start walking to Khumbu tomorrow.


Whole team - 22 March 81

Route = North Ridge (same as New Zealand and French)
Leave 26 March; walking from Kirantichap

Arrive BC 10 April east of Col (5365m on Schneider map)

2 or 3 camps above BC with highest at 22,000 feet

Summit early May but one month on not depending on weather.
No Sherpas above BC.
No oxygen at all.

Australian Himalayan Expedition 1981