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Suzuki - 27 Oct 81

Suzuki hit back of heal and left forearm by falling rocks and 2 times but now completely healed. Head bled for 2 hours, then stopped and went down alone; other member above and could not support him; was about mid-way up to C2 at 5300m; went down to BC. Accident 12:00, started down 2:00 pm and at BC 4:00 pm, was not wearing helmet, only day not wearing it (thought route so safe), was 15 Oct.

BC 12 Sept at 4000m
C1 14 Sept at 4800m
C2 3 Oct at 5600m after stone
C3 11 Oct at 6000m

Went about 100m above C3 on 12 Oct by Suzuki and Machida, then needed rest before summit attempt. No plan for C1.

15 Oct Suzuki and Machida were going for summit attempt (Tanaka in BC with alitude sickness) when accident happened. Were to sleep in C2 that night and go to top next day. Fixed rope already in place and 2 climbers moving separately when accident happened.

5:00 pm walkie-talkie contact and Machida hears what happened and next morning went down; "solo climb impossible for him, he is too young."

Route was SW Ridge; very difficult knife-edge which cover rest on sitting down and every where loose rock so very difficult to fix rope (one point, 4 pitons necessary).

Expedition finished: Machida cannot go up alone, Tanaka sick, Suzuki hurt, Machida's vacation ending and he must return to Japan. Suzuki and Machida could have gone to summit after 1 week if Machida could have stayed longer.

No frostbite, no other accidents.
No oxygen at all.
Tanaka and Suzuki arrived KTM yesterday and Machida yesterday.


Sharma, Tourism - 20 Oct 81

Nilgiri South Japan SW Ridge, 3 members, abandoned
Made C1 3 Oct 5400m
Made C2 12 Oct 6000m

15 Oct 3 members started from BC towards high camps for leader at 5200m 15 Oct injured at 12:30 pm after climbing 1 hour from BC. Injured by rock fall on his head and bled for 1 hour. They went to BC and arrived 16:00 hrs at 4700m after treatment in BC, wound okay but decided to abandon climb.

Leave BC very soon.


Tanaka - 17 Aug 81

2 arrived yesterday, leader arrived 22 Aug
Route = SW Ridge (new route)
Caravan to Lete and Mristi Khola to BC south of Nilgiri South
Leave for Pokhara 29 or 30 Aug, caravan 12-14 days
BC at 4200m south of Pokhara
3 camps above BC
C3 6200-6300m = SW Ridge
C2 5300 on col between South Pokhara and point 5595m
C1 4700m
No Sherpas above BC
No oxygen at all
Most difficult part from C2 to C3 on ridge, rock pinnacles: saw tooth ridge
Above C3 crevasses
Arrive BC about 12 Sept
Summit about 15th Oct