원정 개요

Kato, Tomita & Ozaki - 20 Oct 81

Ozaki on 12 Oct to summit above from C3 at 7150m; other 2 climbers on top 2 days later. Sherpas to C2 only and not staying there.

Kato again frostbite from 1973; maybe on summit day which very cold, returned to C3 6:50 pm and after dark.

Kato skied from C3 to C2. Wanted to ski from summit if had C4, but C4 not made because direct climb possible but very long. Came by helicopter today.

BC - 1 Oct after storm 4600m
C1 - 5 Oct - 5900m
C2 - 7 Oct - 6500m
C3 - 11 Oct - 7150m

12 Oct bad weather. Kato and Ozaki reached plateau. Ozaki kept on going and Kato waiting at plateau 7800m. Ozaki had camera and food, Kato film and walkie-talkie. Left C3 8:00, arrived plateau 11:30 am, at summit 4:40 pm and returned 6:00 pm. Kato waiting until 3:30 pm and returned to C3 about at C3 7:30 pm

13 Oct Ozaki to BC, Kato stayed in C3 and Tomita C2 to C3.
14 Oct Tomita and Kato to summit.
No oxygen to BC at all.


Sharma, Tourism - 18 Oct 81

Summit via NE Face (standard route) by leader who scaled Everest twice, Kato and Masaaki Tomita without oxygen from C3 (14 Oct left C3 and returned to C3 same day). 4 members total, others not climbers.


Tomita - 14 Sept 81

Route = NE Face (normal route)
Approach via Sama village
BC higher than 1976 Japanese-Iran
BC 4950m 30 Sept
C1 5900m 3 Oct - 5 Oct
C2 6500m 5 Oct - 8 Oct
C3 7150m 9 Oct - 14 Oct, established 9 Oct go down, reoccupy 14 Oct
C4 7650 on summit plateau 15 Oct
Ski down from summit by 3 members from 25m below top which is rock
All 4 now in KTM
Leave KTM 15 Sept; 2 weeks to BC so arrived BC 30 Sept
Summit 16 Oct
4 Sherpas above BC; oxygen medical only