Joint Nepalese-Japanese Three Peaks Expedition 1985
Gurja Himal · 1985 · 봄 (1) · Japan
원정 개요
BC at Kaphe Khola near point 4100m on Dhaulagiri map
C1 on glacier near point 4738m
C2 on west side of Ghustang North's small North Ridge
C3 at NW Face of Gurja.
Route was easy mostly: below C2 and on W Ridge required some fixed rope 140m on final ridge and C1 to C2 750m. On summit day left C3 5:30 am and on top 1:45 pm after fixing rope as they moved up that day. In descent Kobayashi fell after his crampon broke and came off. He was on ridge just above col at 6800m. Had good weather during climb not much snowfall.
Makes no attempt to scale Churen or Dhaulagiri VI.
Kobayashi fell 40m hitting head and body on rock and ice. He was carried down to C3 where he died at 8:30 pm on 29 April. Taue had stomach trouble so he and doctor left 1 week ahead of others, but then climb finished.
3 Nepalese "members" were the 3 Sherpas.
- 내부 원정 ID181
- 원본 EXPIDGURJ85101
- 대장Shoichi Kobayashi
- 루트 (Route)NW Face-W Ridge
- 최고 도달고도7193m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용사용
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 12명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shoichi Kobayashi | Japan | Leader | 성공 | - | 사망 |
| Sakae Nagasawa | Japan | Deputy Leader | - | - | - |
| Haruo Itoh | Japan | Climber | - | - | - |
| Yoshiko Kasho | Japan | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Daiji Matsukawa | Japan | Climber | - | - | - |
| Shigeru Ogasawara | Japan | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Michio Sakurai | Japan | Exp Doctor | 성공 | - | - |
| Takayuki Taue | Japan | Climber | - | - | - |
| Nobuko Yoshikawa | Japan | Climber | - | - | - |
| Ang Temba Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | - | - |
| Nawang Choklang Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | - | - |
| Nawang Yonden Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |