원정 개요

Tsunoda - 11 Oct 81

BC 5000m
C1 5950m 21 Sept
C2 6750m 25 Sept on NW Ridge by Tsunoda and 2 and returned to C1 same day
(Suzuki and Sakamoto to C2 26 Sept)

29 Sept avalanche from 6:00-8:00 am snow slide. C2 hit and buried but not swept away; only 2 members [Suzuki and Sakamoto] in C2. 30 Sept Tsunoda and 2 others from C1 to C2. Left C1 7:00 am, but very dangerous, much snow and snow slides below C2. Went to 6600m only and returned to C1. 27-29 Sept snowing 3 days and could not move.

Walkie-talkie 29 Sept 1st radio call at 6:00 am C1 to C2 Tsunoda talked with both by walkie-talkie. They said from C2 very much snowing. "After talking I think accident." Talked only 2-3 minutes; next contact 8:00 am and no talking.

Tsunoda saw or heard nothing of avalanche. All day 29 Sept tried contact but no contact. Other 2 members coming with baggage after 3 days. 1 Oct 3 members from C1 again at 7:00 pm. 1 hour searched for C2. Cannot see tent but 2m below snow found C2 = only tent. Found Akira Suzuki's body, but Sakamoto's not found.

Very strong wind at C2 on 1 Oct and only 3 men so could not carry down body, very dangerous. Returned to C1 at 3 pm. Left Suzuki body in between snow which was very deep and hard. 2 Oct 3 members and 3 Sherpas returned to BC and expedition finished.

First planned to make 4 camps above BC but changed to only 3 camps because route not so difficult. Planned summit 7 or 8 Oct after making route in difficult attack area and after rest. No avalanche before 29 Sept.

If no accident "I think" would have reached summit.
10 years ago expedition this route reached 7000m.


Ranjan Express - 8 Oct 81

Message from Tsunoda:

C2 6750m 29 Sept was seized with snowing could not carry down their bodies. We finished expedition. Arrive KTM 10 Oct

Leader went only to BC and returned to Japan. Left KTM 26 Sept for Japan, must have left BC about 14 Sept.


Sharma, Tourism - 5 Oct 81

Gangapurna Meiji Univ. Sardai
Takeshi Sakamoto, born 10/30/51
Akira Suzuki, born 03/07/57, ex-Tokyo, student
Both reported dead on 29 Sept by L0
Expedition abandoned.
No further details. No camp news above BC.


Tsunoda - 11 Aug 81

2 Japanese here now, 4 more arrived 20 Aug
Leave KTM 23-24 Aug for Dumre, caravan route Kudi
Darapani-Pisang-Manang to Gangapurna Glacier
Route = NW Ridge, unclimbed. Japanese 10 years ago tried it to about 7000m
Gangapurna never climbed from North.
BC in Gangapurna Glacier, 5000m
C1 5300m on glacier
C2 6000m
C3 6800m - 1st camp on ridge
C4 7000m - final camp
C1 to C3 on snow ridge
C3 to C4 is rock ridge (is NW Ridge)
C3 to C4 most difficult, saw-tooth rock ridge, C4 to top again snow ridge and
think not so difficult but no one has climbed this part
3 Sherpas above BC
2 oxygen medical only
Arrive BC 10 Sept; summit about 20 Sept
Return to KTM 30 Oct