원정 개요

Hashimoto & Matsuno - 7 Nov 81

C2 to C3 planned site very long and narrow so made intermediate camp and C4 at C3's site.
Route same as that planned for SW Ridge.

Highest point = 7600m by Matsumo and Watanabe on very difficult rock face. 1 day 2 pitches (100m) only gained on 24 Oct, last day of climbing. Next day bad weather: snow and wind. Kono and Hashimoto tried to go to C6, but wind blew Kano over at 7200m (did not fall but just lay down). Climbing finished.

Japanese C2 to C4 difficult also.
No accidents, etc.

Last autumn US party were on same route. Made BC at Japanese C1. Reached about 5800m; could not go beyond about 5800m because very difficult. Then tried another way to SW Ridge but avalanche stopped them before able to reach ridge. This was told by village people and Matsuno found their fixed rope and nuts at 5620m.

[Ed. note: perhaps villagers are confusing this expedition with the 1979 American expedition that also attempted the Himalchuli by two different routes.]


Hashimoto - 18 Aug 81

SW Ridge = unclimbed route, what Tourism calls South Ridge and what 1981 spring expedition tried to reach though spring expedition came from east (from Chhuling Glacier) whereas present team from south.

All in KTM: arrived 7 and 16 Aug, leave KTM 21 Aug by road to Dumre, Dordi Khola to BC on Dordi Glacier at 3800m. 10-12 days caravan to BC or BC 1 or 2 Sept.

C5 at 7200m probably highest camp, but a C6 at 7650m, a deposit camp with oxygen and biv tent; for attack party from C5 to spend summit night in, unable to reach C5 same day.

Most difficult part of route above 7000m, overhang from 7200-7500m.
Use oxygen sleeping only, not attack time.
8-10 days acclimatization from BC.
Summit 40 days from end of acclimatization.
6 Sherpas above BC.
1958 and 1959 expeditions on Himalchuli were from Nihon Univ also.
No recce, 1 attack.