원정 개요

Sasaki & Yoshino - 15 Nov 81

31 Oct Kato and Endo missed route in half hour. Kato 1st going up and Endo delayed 30 minutes. Endo at 10:00 am saw Kato's footprints and slip mark where Kato fell, then blizzard and Endo returned to C5 at 2:00 pm.

1 Nov Endo to C4 where leader and 2 members were. Climb was very difficult and rock broken easily. Not much snow on face; mostly ice and rock. Snow and ice avalanches thrice at C2 from Polish route. 1st time 3 tents broken and some equipment missing, 2nd time 1 tent broken and 1 member slightly injured.

Most difficult to fix rope. C2 to C5 all fixed rope. Did not go to middle summit - to top of face and thence to main summit.

Oxygen never used.

Above C3 no Sherpas able to climb, so members must carry all supplies up this plus big storm at end of Sept is reason why so long to reach C4.

All members have bruised legs from daily rock fall.


Shrestha, Tourism - 6 Nov 81

Yasuji Kato, 32, electrical engineer Kawasaki, reported last from 31 Oct at 5:50 am. At 11:00 am their members lost contact with this pair via walkie-talkie.

1 Nov Endo alone came back C4 6600m and informed that at 11:00 am 31 Oct they lost their way due to snow blizzard when they were between C5 and top; only one walkie-talkie was with Kato.

All others in good health.
Then 2 reached summit on 29 Oct
LO message sent 3 Oct
31 Oct last climbing date


Sharma, Tourism - 2 Nov 81

C5 7300m - date?
29 Oct Yukihiro Yanegisawa (26 Tokyo) and Hiroshi Aota (23 Tokyo) without oxygen to summit. Started from C5 at 7:00 am and reached top 3:30 pm, planted Nepal and Japanese flags and stayed 10 minutes, returned C5 7:00 pm same day - well.

Leader and 4 other members would attempt summit - date?


Sharma, Tourism - 4 Sept 81

BC established 28 Aug at 4060m. Members condition "so-so", weather not good.


Yoshino - 11 Aug 81

12 members: 11 in KTM and other 15 Aug
Leave 20 Aug to Pokhara by road and 8 days caravan to South Face
Route South Face, last British and Polish routes
BC - 4200m
C5 - 7500m
6 H-A Sherpas
Oxygen medical only
Start climb 1 Sept, summit mid-Oct

Route same difficulty and steepness as Polish and more than British.

Route on ridge between Polish and British to col between wind and main summits and thence to main summit.

Had planned route Poles climbed, then shifted to different one when learned of Poles success one month ago.

BC in Sanctuary altitude same site as British.

Tokyo Himalayan Expedition 1981, etc.

No sponsor: private funding (by Yeti A)