한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

본문 바로가기

히말라얀 데이터베이스

⌂ 처음 화면
← 산의 원정 기록

NMA-HAJ Joint Expedition to Mt Langtang Ri 1981

Langtang Ri · 1981 · 가을 (3) · Japan

원정 개요

Yamada & Uematsu - 22 Oct 81

BC 4940m 20 Sept
C1 5500m 22 Sept
C2 6450m 30 Sept right after big storm
C3 6630m 3 Oct
Summit 10 Oct by Yamada, Wakao, Nasu and Ang Rinji Sherpa
Summit 11 Oct by Iizawa and Nakaoka

Route was South Ridge; sharp snow ridge C2 to top so little difficult; this route the least difficult on the mountain.

Avalanches not problem, but lot of snow in big storm at end of of Sept: at C1 8 members had 1.5m snow and busy shovelling it away. After C3 established, all down to BC for rest 2-3 days, then up to summit. 10 Oct first summit attempt.

Oxygen never used.
No accidents, frostbite or illness.
Route really not so difficult, but needs fixed rope.


Sharma, Tourism - 18 Oct 81

Langtang Ri 7239m opened this May
Virgin peak; its expedition led Hideyuki Uematasu
Summit reached from SW Ridge
Oct 10 and 11 by 6 people total

1st man to step on summit at 11:20 am 10 Oct was:
Ang Rinzi Sherpa, 27, representative of NMA
Next:
Noburu Yamada, 1950, Numata, Gunma
Makihiro Wakao, 1949, Nagano
Soichi Nasu, 1952, Nagai, Yamagata

Japanese and Nepalese flags and photos of TM's
Left C3 (6630m established on 30 Oct) in morning; stayed on top 40 minutes, took photos; returned to C3 same day.

Oct 11 summiters were:
Minoru Iizawa, 1950, Nagai, Yamagata
Isashi Nakaoka, 1949, Sakai, Ibaragi Meiji
Returned to C3 same day

Oct 14 leaving BC, according to LO letter that morning; arrive KTM after 4-5 days.


Wakao & Kikuchi - 11 Aug 81

Route= SW Ridge
Langtang Ri never attempted before; at border, are of Nepalese highest unclimbed peaks
2nd Japanese member arrived KTM 22 Aug and other 4 arrived 31 Aug
3 Nepalese members
Leave KTM about 10 Sept
Trisuli Bazaar to Trisuli River to Langtang Khola to Langtang Glacier
BC 5100m on Langtang Glacier
Route to col at 5760m end of Chusundo Peak (6508m) to Tilman's Col
C1 at Tilman's Col 5670m col
Thence along SW Ridge with 2 more camps
C3 at about 6800m
Arrive BC 21-22 Sept
Summit about 15-20 Oct
Wakao did recce to Tilman's Col a month ago and says route looks easy
1 HA porter
Oxygen for medical

  • 내부 원정 ID1806
  • 원본 EXPIDLANR81301
  • 대장Hideyuki Uematsu
  • 루트 (Route)SW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도7205m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 11명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Hideyuki UematsuJapanLeader---
Minoru IizawaJapanDeputy Leader성공--
Noboru YamadaJapanClimbing Leader성공--
Isashi NakaokaJapanClimber성공--
Soichi NasuJapanClimber성공--
Ang Rinji SherpaNepalClimber성공--
Ang Rita SherpaNepalClimber---
Sange SherpaNepalClimber---
Makihiro WakaoJapanClimber성공--
Masaaki YukiJapanExp Doctor---
Dawa Gyaltsen SherpaNepalSirdar---

출처·참고문헌

Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth · 1981 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1981 · 잡지 (3) · MM
First Ascent of Langtang Ri in 1981Uematsu, Hideyuki · 1981 · 학술지·저널 (2) · JAC
Photo and route map in English included in Japanese section
First Ascent of Langtang Ri in 1981Uematsu, Hideyuki · 1981 · 학술지·저널 (2) · JAC
Includes photos and route map in English
· 1981 · 잡지 (3) · IWA
· 1981 · 잡지 (3) · IWA
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198222301/Asia-Nepal-Langtang-Ri · 1981 · 웹사이트 (5) ·