원정 개요

Kataoka - 28 Oct 81

Ministry of Tourism camp and summit data correct after C2; much snow 27-29 Sept and BC have 40 cm and above more probably. All in C1 or on 28 Sept down to BC.

West Ridge no avalanches.

Then Nepali members left expedition. They complained food no good, but 2 of them not strong enough. So leader and Nepalese came back to KTM and leader recruited another Nepali member (Pemba Tshering). Luckily expedition had time and food for this. Leader and Pemba Tshering arrived BC 14 Oct. While away, others maintained route and bought food in Langtang village.

15 Oct 2 members Murakami and Shingyoji making route and 16 Oct all other members had new Nepali member started up.

Uchimura in 2nd party stopped 100m below summit because he was tired; also very strong wind and very cold; he returned to camps with 1st party. All snow and ice climbing, no rock, lot of ice especially after storm late Sept which made it difficult. 40-degrees steepness; fixed rope near C1 only. Found no signs of any previous expeditions.

No accidents, illness, frostbite. All returned KTM 27 Oct.

Used oxygen in C1 for 1 minute, Uchimura in early stage of expedition.


Sharma, Tourism - 26 Oct 81

Dorje Lhakpa - West Face joint Hosei-Nepalese expedition.

Oct 18 summit - started from C2 6250m at 4:00 am and on top 11:45 am, stayed on top 10 minutes only because high wind at summit and returned to C2 at 5:00 pm. They were Pemba Tshering (38, of Namche), 1st on on top, 2nd Kazunari Murakami (1955, Tokyo engineer), 3rd Eiichi Shingyogi (1957, car repairman of Tokyo) in 1st group; at 12:40 pm same day another group, 1st Kunio Kataoka (1954, truck driver and expedition leader of Tokyo) and 2nd Makoto Anbe (1957, student), reached summit from C2 and returned to C2 at 6:00 pm. Also on top only 10 minutes because very high wind. To leave BC Oct 21.

5 Japanese and 4 Nepalese members. 3 Nepalese left early ostensibly because didn't like food [but really because Nepalese members and porters being given same wages].


Shrestha, Tourism - 9 Oct 81

C2 26 Sept 6250m. Leader and sirdar came to KTM; left BC 30 Sept and returned after 4-5 days (now in KTM).


Katoaka - 11 Aug 81

Permission received 5 members and 3 Nepali members; other Japanese arrived KTM.
Leave 5 Sept on 5-days caravan via Trisuli Bazaar and Trisuli River and
Langtang Khola to BC.
BC 4900m on 13 Sept
2 camps above BC, maybe 3: C1 5300m, C2 6200m
Route = West Ridge, same as Earl of Shaftesbury (who went to 6300m)
Start climb after acclimatization and sorting about 20 Sept.
Summit about 18 Oct.
Most difficult part of route is above 6300m where crevasse and hanging glacier
and very steep
No H-A porters. Sherpa members: Ang Tendi, Ang Pasang, Phu Dorje
Oxygen medical only

1 month ago Kataoka did recce to col 5880m just east of Dorje Lhakpa; C1 will be at col.
Hosei University-NMA Joint Expedition to Dorje Lhakpa 1981.

Sponsored by Himalayan Association of Japan.