원정 개요

Kobayashi - 3 Nov 81

6000m reached; reached French or New Zealand high camp and about 2 pitches higher on North Ridge.

BC 5200m 12 Oct established ABC (5365m) made 15 Oct but no one stayed in it. No permanent camp above BC; 3 snowholes 5600m on 21 Oct, 5800m on 22 Oct and 6000m on 23 Oct; all snowholes made by all members climbing together. Then food finished, all down to 5600m. Kobayashi goes down with leader leaving other 3 to carry food up on 25 Oct. Then 2 days bad weather and 3 stayed in 5600m and 27th down to BC

27th all down in BC and expedition finished. 2 members must go back to Japan. Route may difficult and all climbing equipment finished. Route more difficult than expected above ABC: snow wall and snow ridge very difficult needing more fixed rope and pitch than expected and supply ran out. Kobayashi down on 25th with frostbitten toes both feet (will heal, not black). Other members well, no frostbite, no accidents.

Others now in Lukla waiting for plane; maybe in KTM 7 Nov.


Katoh - 23 Sept 81

Leave 26 or 27 Sept by charter to Lukla. Arrived BC about 5 Oct via Chhukung and Ama Dablam Glacier. BC at 5000m on Ama Dablam Glacier.

Route = South-North Ridge, same as French 1979, New Zealand 1980 and Australia 1981.

1 fixed camp at about 6000m
15-20 days on summit after arrive BC
No climbing Sherpas and no oxygen at all

Above 6000m most difficult requiring some fixed rope. Have 200m fixed rope - 45 degree slope and don't want to use rope but maybe will need to use some.


Muraoka - 17 Sept 81

Route = North Ridge = '80 autumn New Zealand leader and 3 arrived today. Leave KTM early next week on foot in 3 weeks to BC acclimatization on small peaks en route.

BC about 5200m on Ama Dablam Glacier.

Route include very steep wall. Hope to climb alpine-style but depends on condition of ridge. Maybe need 3 fixed camps with C2 at 6500m, C1 5900m, perhaps no Sherpas above BC. No oxygen at all.

The Himalaya Expedition of Fujinomiya Alpine Club

About 12 days climbing period BC - summit

Will ask HMG for extension of permit into November.