원정 개요

This mountain previously known as Ganesh III until re-surveyed in early 1990's.

Kanazawa - 29 Oct 81

NE Ridge to North Ridge = route. Ridge joined at about 6300m and here German route joined Japanese (or rather vice versa)

BC 3800m 17 Sept
C1 4600m 22 Sept
C2 5400m 1 Oct after storm
C3 6300m 6 Oct

Summit 10 days later: very steep rock band and ice face. 2 days rest at BC; but no food at high camp and they went down, so Japanese also down because Japanese had to give Germans precedence. Japanese arrived C3 1 day before Germans and fixed same rope above C3 before Germans arrived.

Needed fixed rope all way to summit from C3; put in 1000m: Japanese and Germans alternating pitches at first all 4 Japanese and 3 Nepalese members started up from C3 with German 4 early morning. Then Japanese sirdar [Ang Phuri] wanted to turn back, so Kanazawa had to go back with him.

No accidents, etc.
No oxygen

Japanese route simple and easy; German route more difficult technically, but perhaps more safe; Japanese route more difficult in Spring.


Sharma Tourism - 23 Oct 81

Joined Germans at C3 at 6360m on 15 Oct (had established C3 6 Oct). 16 Oct Japanese followed Germans to summit at 2:00 pm:
Tendi Sherpa, 25
Kirki Lama, 28
All Japanese except leader Ken Kanazawa, 1945, dentist
1) Nobuhide Kuwahara, 1944, Tokyo, dentist
2) Joji Nakamura, Fukuoka, 1948, dentist
3) Nobuhiro Hase, 1956, Kekubunji, salesman


Kanazawa - 3 Sept 81

Last autumn Japanese route = present route = NE Ridge.

Present expedition's C3 and Warth's camp very near at 6000m on snow plateau. From here same route to summit, so Japanese must wait for Warth to finish his attempt before they make their attempt to reach summit.


Kanazawa - 30 Aug 81

Approach via Buri Gandaki to Toragompa Khola to Toragampa Glacier.

Want same North Ridge as 1980 autumn Japanese route, maybe same as Germans this season: Kanazawa proposes to Germans (Hermann Warth) they share route with Japanese behind Germans.

Leave KTM 4 Sept
Arrive BC at 3900m about 18 Sept
Start climb 24 Sept
C4 highest about 6500m
Summit about 20 Oct and return, KTM 2 Nov
4 Japanese and 3 Nepalese members (Nepalese = Sherpas)
[Sherpas nominal members for permit]
3 H-A Sherpas also (to C1 or C2 only)
No oxygen at all