원정 개요

Yoshiga - 12 Nov 81

BC 4800m - 28 Sept
Route = West Ridge (French route)

South Ridge 5000-6000m by crevasses and seracs; climbed 3 days to 530m and then realized too difficult and dangerous for Sherpa carries, so changed to French route (West Ridge).

C1 4 Oct 5450m
C2 10 Oct 5900m
C3 15 Oct 6200m (same camp moved each time)
2 Sherpas carried only to C1, 3 members carried above
15 Oct 6500m reached
16 Oct rested
18-20 Oct rush attack from 6200m - bivs: 18th 6780m
18 Oct strong wind, no sleep, holding everything down
19 Oct late start, reached 6820m bivouac at 11:30 am, could see no bivouac site
above; again strong wind
20 Oct all 3 members leave bivouac equipment and go for top; up snow face and
ridge to 7400m at 1:00 pm; late now and strong wind: 4-5 hours more to top
and no bivouac equipment, so back to 6820m bivouac
21 Oct to C3
22 Oct to BC

Climbing finished; enjoyed climb; no accidents, frostbite
No oxygen at all with expedition.


Sharma, Tourism - 26 Oct 81

Jannu West Rib abandoned Oct 21 because of strong wind. Had reached 7400m Oct 20. Leave BC between 26. 3 members led by Masayuki Shinohara.


Ale, Tourism - 1 Oct 81

BC 28 Sept 4800m on south side.
1 Oct will begin climb
Weather cloudy and snowing. All well


Shinohara and Yoshiga - 25 Aug 81

Route = West Ridge to Czechs SW Ridge from Yamatari Col to col on West Ridge
BC on Yamatari Col at 5000m
C1 at col on West Ridge - 6000m
C2 on West Ridge - 6800m
C3 on SW Ridge - 7400m
Present expeditions West Ridge is a rib which joins Czechs Ridge at about 7000m
All 3 members arrived KTM 23 Aug left 5 Sept by road to Dharan.
15 or 16 days to BC. Arrive BC 20-22 Sept, summit 25 Oct.
Difficult route: most difficult between C1 and C2: very steep, and between C3
and summit: also very steep.
3 Sherpas to C1 only.
No oxygen at all.


Tokyo Jannu West Rib Expedition 1981
420-2 Nish Kuki-shi
Saitama-ken, Japan
Tokyo Tsuyukusa Mountain Club