원정 개요

Scott Macbeth - 13 Nov 81

Everest East Face

Decision to come off was made 6 or 7 Oct by Reichardt.
Roskelley, McCubbrey and Macbeth went away about 23-24 Sept, left mountain entirely.

C1 Snow camp - 18,000 feet
C2 Pinsetter - 19,000 feet
C3 Raven's Roost - 19,400 feet
C4 Helmet Camp - 21,000-21,500 feet made about 20 Sept

Yosemite-style climbing at 5 times elevation of Yosemite Valley, 65 degree-70 degree avalanches - at least 8000-9000 feet fixed rope. 6 Tibetan porters BC -> ABC for early part of time, then no other helpers. Several storms meant complete lack of consolidation of snow higher up so not sure wouldn't be slab avalanches and no where to hide above Helmet Camp if big slab avalanche came down and huge avalanche did come down to route of route 22 Sept and convinced Roskelley whole face completely unsafe, but others didn't agree led by Andy Harvard.

Lowe had set up Helmet Camp with Macbeth. Above Helmet Camp, Reichardt, Lowe, Reid and Giller explored a bit but no higher camp established.


Blum's Everest Expedition

AMREE members in KTM 4-6 Aug 1981 said:

Blum team leave US about 16 Aug, fly to Lhasa, reached BC within about a week. Kennedy dropped out as member because of danger on East Face; definitely will climb East Face. Reichardt is still climbing leader. Talked with him not long before AMREE left USA.


Scott Macbeth - 9 Dec 80

Leave SFO early Aug
BC at 17,500 ft about 7 Sept up Kharta Valley's end
Dump just before rock buttress 5 hours from fixed camps up face
Route up East Face to SE Ridge between Col and Hillary Step.