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Tirolean Himalayan Expedition 1981

Makalu · 1981 · 가을 (3) · Austria

원정 개요

Haid - 28 Oct 81

5440m BC - 10 Sept
6150m C1 - 15 Sept
7000m C2 - 23 Sept
Big snowstorm from 26th nights.
27th C2 members descended.
29th 2nd snowfall and big wind (BC 30 cm) so from C1 to BC.
2 Oct tried to go from C1 to C2, but big avalanche hit 4 members, but not hurt.

8 Oct abandoned after 7 Oct 1 member and 3 Sherpas went to see C2; 2 tents destroyed and too dangerous for avalanche and very strong winds, so never above C2.

No accidents, frostbite illness
Route was northwest side (it is not a ridge)


Graebenweger - 26 Oct 81

Expedition abandoned 8 Oct decided to stop; windy so late. Some supplies lost, but not so bad.
Lot of avalanches in big storm.

4 people in snow up to rocks. After could get to C2 at about 7000m; this highest point reached about 22 Sept C3 would have been at Col at 7400m, but never got to Col at all.

No injuries of frostbite
Left BC 20 Oct
4 arrived 24 Oct, others after few days and those here now wait
Graebenweger, Rabensteiner, Bluemel and Schoepf arrived KTM on 24 Oct; are at Trekkers Lodge.


Sharma, Tourism - 26 Oct 81

Austrian Makalu expedition abandoned 8 Oct after reaching 7000m which was C2 because of high winds since 29 Sept and frequent avalanches on route. Left BC 20 Oct. All well.


Haid & Ljubanovic - 17 Aug 81

Tirolean Himalaya Expedition 1981

All arrived 14 Aug; not all baggage has arrived but hope to leave 22 or 23 Aug by road to Dharan; 20 days from KTM to BC.
Route = northwest side, French 1955 standard route
BC at 5300m
4 camps above BC
C4 at about 8000m, higher the better
6 Sherpas above BC
Have oxygen for climbing, but some want to try without
Arrive BC about 8-10 Sept
Summit late Oct, 4-6 weeks climbing

  • 내부 원정 ID1798
  • 원본 EXPIDMAKA81302
  • 대장Arthur Haid
  • 루트 (Route)Makalu La-NW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도7000m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)

참가자 9명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Arthur HaidAustriaLeader---
Johann SchoepfAustriaClimbing Leader---
Dieter BluemelAustriaClimber---
Alfred FluerAustriaClimber---
Hannes GraebenwegerAustriaClimber---
Klaus KellerAustriaClimber---
Theodor LjubanovicAustriaExp Doctor---
Mario RabensteinerAustriaClimber---
Walter VenierAustriaClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth · 1981 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198220702/Asia-Nepal-Makalu-Attempt · 1981 · 웹사이트 (5) ·