원정 개요

Huber - 19 Oct 81

All members will arrive KTM this evening and left 23 Oct; all Ok except 2 helicoptered out 3 weeks ago.

4 days = 2m snow and C1, C2 and C3 all broken while occupied by wind and snow. In C2 in 4 days, unable to move. 27-30 Sept avalanche wiped out C1. BC also broken. High point about 6900m by Hausberger and Pockstaller; needed 3-4 more days to summit.

Equipment all finished, thus after storm not possible to climb any more. Then kitchen boy became seriously ill and had to be carried down. Huber fell while carrying and broke ribs.


Sharma Tourism - 12 Oct 81

Dhaulagiri I Austria abandoned 30 Sept.

C3 established 22 Sept; altitude 6800m because of heavy snowfall while trying to make route from C3 to C4, thought impossible to reach summit.

Left BC 10 Oct. All well.


Huber - 18 Aug 81

Arrived 17 Aug; all 9 arrived
Leave KTM 22 or 23 Aug to Pokhara by road; 2 weeks Pokhara to BC
BC to summit one month or little more
BC at 4400m
4 camps above BC; C4 at 7200-7300m
4 Sherpas above BC
Medical oxygen only (2 bottles only)