원정 개요

Bruchez - 28 Oct 81

Climbing route was SE Ridge.

16 Oct summit by Bruchez and Hauser on Lhotse Shar. Windy but good from C4 7150m. 6 people left C4. 2 Sherpas Ang Tshering and Pasang Rita, Favez and Petten went down from 8150m to C4 because it was late 2:30 pm and decided only 2 go up. Bruchez and Hauser reached top 4:45 pm and to C4 at 9:30 pm.

2 Sherpas to C3. 2 missing Swiss simply disappeared; saw bodies 3 days later (19 Oct) on SW Face of Lhotse Shar at about 6000m. Could not go to bodies because avalanche and rock fall on face all the time. Climbing now finished anyway because weather getting bad, very very windy. Traverse would not be possible now.

Left BC 24 Oct. Next day leader had fatal fall of 30 meters on trail. 26 Oct police came from Namche.

Traverse is possible to intermediate and main summits and down West Face, but do not recommend back to Shar.

6 used oxygen above C4.
No frostbite, had good equipment.


Sharma Tourism - 22 Oct 81

Swiss Lhotse and Lhotse Shar East Ridge

16 Oct 2 members reached Lhotse Shar.

Top 16:45 hours: David Bruchez (28) and Jean Hauser (33); summiters returned to C3 same evening.

While returning to C3 8150m after not going to top, 2 Sherpas arrived at C3 at 18:30 hours, but others Pierre Favez (38, army officer) and Philippe Petten (24, guide) did not return to C3 and until yesterday not seen. Missing as per messages from LO and leader expedition still searching for lost 2 members, message said. Date of message not known.

10 member expedition led by Fauchere.


Fauchere - 25 Aug 81

Route = East Face, new route
BC on Lhote Shar Glacier at 5300m

4 or 5 camps above BC; last camp at 8200m before from Lhotse Shar try to go to Lhotse Shar. No fixed camps after Lhotse Shar. Try to stay on ridge via Lhotse Intermediate.

All 15 members in KTM. Leave 27 Aug by road to Lamosangu; trek 3 weeks to BC
Summit of Lhotse Shar 10-15 Oct and of Lhotse about 20 Oct.
Oxygen bottles
5 Sherpas above BC
Most difficult part of climb is Lhotse Shar to Lhotse Main.