원정 개요

This mountain previously known as Ganesh III until re-surveyed in early 1990's.

Hermann Warth - Feb 82

Climbing routes:
1953 New Zealand - North Ridge
1954 Japan - NW Ridge
1971 Germany - NE Spur
1980 spring Japan - West Face to South Ridge
1980 autumn Japan - NE Spur
1981 spring Japan - West Face to South Ridge
1981 autumn Germany - North Ridge to North Face
1981 autumn Japan - NE Spur to North Face


Warth - 1 Nov 81

Route = NE Spur to North Face
BC - 3900m - 19 Sept
C1 - 5200m - 21 Sept
C2 - 5900m - 26 Sept
C3 - 6300m - 7 Oct

Summit 16 Oct 1/2 hour before Japanese by Warth and 3 Nepalese members; Ang Chepal 1st on top.

My most difficult climb in Himalayas, more difficult than Shartse. Technical difficulty of grades 4 to 5; most difficult part was rock band at 6500m (70m high).

No accidents, etc.


Sharma, Tourism - 23 Oct 81

Summit 16 Oct by
Ang Chepal Sherpa, 35, 1st man
Na Temba Sherpa, 30
Nima Tenzing Sherpa, 38
Hermann Warth, 49

C3 7 Oct 6360m. C3 at same place. Reached top 1:30 pm

At C3 Japanese and German route join and agreed that Japanese NE Ridge, route very dangerous, so two parties made a C3 on 15 Oct. Japanese let Germans go ahead.


Warth - 4 Aug 81

Leave 7-8 Sept.
5 members Warth, 3 Sherpas and Warth's wife (not beyond 5900 C2)
Route = North Ridge
Arrived BC after 14 days at 4000m at moraine of glacier
No H-A porters [Sherpas nominal members for permit]
3 camps above BC
C3 about 6700m
Summit about 15 Oct = 3 weeks climbing
4 oxygen bottles for medical
KTM to Buri Ghat by truck and Gandaki Valley then east.