원정 개요

Rudzinski - 23 Nov 81

2 days walk Darchula to BC but great shortage of porters took 2 weeks to get all loads to BC. BC established 14 Oct with last loads all there on 16th at 3500m at Budhi Khola valley parallel to and west of Api Khola. BC was northwest of Api. Route was east to NW Ridge of Api.

ABC was in Api Khola at 4800m on 24 Oct. 3 members Jedlinski, Piotrowski, Terlikowski had already started on 23 Oct alpine-style attack on mountain. ABC for return. They started from BC with 10 days food and equipment. Ridge on point 6070 on topo map and followed ridge to 5800m; from there beyond on ridge difficult ice. 28 Oct reached 6700m on ridge and then stopped by very strong wind. Put tent there in half on ice cave and slept 2 nights there waiting for wind to die down, but wind did not die down. Tried to go up but wind below. One man of 85 kg over 30m.

30 Oct noon they started back. Went through and icefall in descent more difficult and dangerous than Khumbu Icefall. Returned to BC 2 Nov night while 3 men making their attempt others made ABC and C1 on 25 Oct 5400m to be ready to help high climber if necessary.

6 Nov started return to Darchula.

Nepal permit valid til 25 Nov but Indian permit to cross from Nepal to India Darchula expired 15 Nov.

Delhi to India Darchula is 24 hours by bus and very cheap; would go this way again. Home Ministry in Delhi gives permit and should be obtained well in advance and through an embassy in Delhi.

India Darchula has electricity and hard-topped road; Nepalese Darchula only paths.

No accidents.

Route certainly possible. Expedition lost much there re-Nepalese permits and porters. Where 3 men stopped was only 3-4 hours easy walk to summit.


Rudzinski - 21 Sept 81

Route = Northwest side, exactly what feature (face or pillar) will decide often arrival at BC.

Approach from India at Darchula in west. Probably approach mountain from Api Khola, perhaps from Nampa Khola; recce party will go in advance to decide where to put BC.

3 members only in KTM, arrived 18 Sept, others 5 in Delhi.

Plan leave KTM 25 or 26 Sept and arrive Darchula 29 or 30 Sept. 4-5 days from Darchula to BC.

Climb alpine-style; not much equipment, not big expedition; maybe 1 final camp, maybe none. 3 weeks BC to top.

Rudzinski and some others return to KTM 5-6 weeks after departure depending on weather.

No Sherpas above BC.
1 small oxygen for medical.