원정 개요

BC at Pandra Glacier east of Syao
C1 on glacier west of SW Ridge
C2 on SW Ridge (Japanese C3 site) well protected
C3 on SW Ridge (1 or 2 hours before from "East Peaks" of Japan).

Reached C2 from Glacier up West Face to camp's site on ridge, where route reached ridge, West Face not steep or difficult - all snow (no ice). Ridge itself not very difficult but from C2 to C3 (took time fixing rope - 420m fixed rope). From C3 to summit only 50m fixed rope, used alpine technique (in contrast to Japanese who spent much time fixing lots of rope to "Japanese" summit). Weather was very good and every day "we did something" but very strong wind and at C3 Sherpa's tent destroyed by wind.

Had planned to climb West Ridge but found it too dangerous from avalanches. Also expeditions goal was for all members to reach summit and too difficult to reach West Ridge from glacier because of icefalls for all members.


Rieder, Swiss - 16 May 85

Ohmi Kangri really has one summit. Point needed by Japanese in '82 is just a point on SW Ridge. There are 2 points on SW Ridge: "East Peak" and "Central Peak," but real summit is the northwest or "West Peak." Ohmi Kangri is a large dome without difficulty. We followed SW Ridge over two teeth, "East and Central Peaks" to highest point. East and Central are no summits, only two difficulties on the ridge.