원정 개요

Laroche - 29 Oct 81

Deposit camp between BC and C1, so Ministry of Tourism C2=C1 and C1=deposit camp.

Route was SW Ridge. For us no big difficulties like crevasses, but objective dangers like wind slab. Most of part between C1 and C2 was wind slab. Think now the slabs have already gone. Crevasses between C2 and top which Swiss found are now not so big. Consider themselves first to scale Numbur.

Next expedition would be better to put BC [higher], for BC was just north of 4800m beside "D" of Dudh Kund Glacier on Shorang map (same site on Swiss). From Summit saw place near small lakes southwest of Point 5319 (northwest of Dudh Kund Glacier).

For many BC->C1 too long, or at least could be shorter if sites BC near lakes. For summit ridge was steep and sharp. North side looked bad icefall. "I wouldn't like it."

No accidents, frostbite or illness. No oxygen used.


Sharma, Tourism - 16 Oct 81

Jean-Pierre Herry (1948, Chamonix) and Christian Rathat (1945, Coubron) climbed to summit 14 Oct at 11:56 am after 5 hours climbing from C2 (6300m). Mingma Sherpa also to top. Lower camps not known if others trying.


Laroche and Richalet - 14 Sept 81

Route = SW Ridge
Leave KTM 18 or 19 Sept
To Kirantichap by Land Rover and 10 days to BC.
No Sherpas above BC
Oxygen medical only
BC at about 5000m near top of Dudh Kund Glacier thence northwest to SW Ridge
of Numbur
C1 at about 5600m
C2 at about 6200m
and 1 light camp or bivouac
Arrive BC end September; about 29th BC to summit (3 weeks).
Perhaps 2 problems: steep well between C1 and C2 and crevasse high up.

Main aim is scientific lab at BC: physiological adaptation to high altitude: sleep patterns modification, vision, blood characteristics. Will have electric power and bicycle to measure heart rate.