원정 개요

Richard Yves & Christian Nuytten - 25 Oct 81

Were on North Face. Did not actually reach West Ridge found some fixed ropes from 19 yrs ago (Lionel Terray expedition, whose altitudes were 200m too high). 5900m high point reached by Moreau and Yves, 4 others 100m below.

Arrived BC 11 Oct 4100m
C1 16 Oct 5600m

High point 23 Oct 5900m (19,350 feet). No more progress: snow above knee a 60% sleeping face and no more time: 7-10 more days. Also very cold (-20 degrees).

[?] days above 4000m only; more needed for good acclimatization.

2 here now today via air from Jomsom, 5 after one week.

Route to C1 via a ridge, which was safe, then must traverse right (to avoid rocks) to West Ridge. Much more snow than Terray expedition; he had snow only above C1 but now well below.

All members Ok; little frosting of toes. No accidents, no avalanches although left of their ridge there was constant avalanching.


Yves Richard & Bernard Moreau - 28 Sept 81

Route = North Face to West Ridge (1962 Dutch route, but not completely sure
where exactly Dutch went).
Leave KTM 29 or 30 Sept by road to Pokhara, then approach via Jomsom to
north of mountain.
BC about 4500m, arrive 9-10 Oct.
1 or 2 fixed camps; don't know exactly where but probably are on face and one
on ridge at 6500m.
No Sherpas above BC
No oxygen at all
Most difficult part of route between 1st and 2nd camp: very steep, will need
fixed rope here.
Summit 20-25 Oct.