원정 개요

Ang Kami - 31 March 84

Ang Kami [claims he] went to Manaslu summit with Beghin and Mueller.


Beghin - 18 Oct 81

Bretin tried go to C2 to C3 alone but could not find C3 in dark so had to return to C2, one day after summiter success.

Route = West Face or SW Face. Very difficult new route; much stone fall so had to go quickly: small expedition had no accident but big expedition too dangerous.

Most difficult was C1 to C2: 1000m wall of ice, bad rock which difficult to fix rope, stone fall hurt rope. Very high 3400m face, very difficult and many avalanches. Climbed only between 4:00 and 9:00 am. Difficult to find space for tents; had to dig for space for 1 tent.

50% steepness above C2 and there to summit was alpine-style: 3 days from C2 to top and back to C2 without fixed ropes. Above C2 not so dangerous, but below very much so. After deposit camp swept away by snow about 10 Sept, thought to give up. Deposit at 4800m just above high BC; lost rope, snow pickets, tarpaulin and 1 tent. After this decided to climb only at dark. "I don't recommend it to my friends, this route."

Japanese autumn 1981 Manaslu summiter Ozaki said he found snowshoes and basket 50 meters below summit.


Beghin - 19 Aug 81

Route = SW Face, on right of Japanese 1971 ridge/face route.

No one knows this face which is entirely different from Austria 1972 South Face (on other side of a ridge). SW Face is to left of Austrian route.

2 here now, other 2 arrive 23 Aug.
Leave KTM 25-26 Aug by truck to Dumre; about 10 days Dumre to BC.
Low BC about 3800m, LO and cook
Face = 3500m high very high right expedition. 1 or 2 or 3 camps with only tents; perhaps 2 camps, not more I think.

High BC at 5000m; real BC for climbers. 2 or 3 camps above this camp with 1 at about 6000m or little less and others about 6600-6700m and perhaps bivouac camp on summit of face at 7400-7500m.

Arrive low BC 5 Sept, then ferry loads to high BC by 4 members, 2 Sherpas and 2 local porters. High BC stocked in 10 days. Enough for members and Sherpas to stay there and above while 2 porters continue ferries. About 10 Sept start making route above high BC by 2 members while 2 continue ferries.

Very difficult face, very steep 50-55%, very complex face where must find route, but very very light expedition, not heavy camps; no oxygen. Might finish climb in 4 weeks but will stay as long as possible (until end of Oct).
Maybe 1 oxygen for medical.

Approach via Marshyangdi Khola to Jhenje, Dhudhkbola - then to Daman Khola?? (Sherpas disagree) - same approach as Japanese 1971.