원정 개요

Roche - 15 Oct 81

Bodies not found; only 1 glove seen below C1; too much snow at C2 and 2 Sherpas didn't want to go up to search, too much ice, etc. at C1.

Expedition had 4 Sherpas who went above BC.


Vion - 7 Sept 81

Vion arrived KTM 5 Sept.
Ministry camp data Ok; BC at 4400m.

C4 made on 24 Sept by Roland Girod-Roux, Jean-Pierre Tomio, Rene Tomio, Jean-Pierre Favre and Andre Durieux.

7400m reached by Durieux and Roland on 26 Sept.

Above C4 route was right on ridge; route would go and would put C5 on 27 Sept if weather good at 7500m and attempt summit 28-29 Sept by first team, Vion and Mingma or Jean-Pierre Favre and Girod-Roux. 2nd team the other 2 of these 4; 3rd team Tomio brothers.

Yves Favre had slight medical problem (piles) and Durieux a little tired; might have made a later summit attempt.

Weather turned bad night of 26-27 Sept and began snow 2:00 am. Durieux was in C3 with Jean-Paul Vion, Roland Girod-Roux and Sirdar Mingma.

Yves Favre from BC to C2 on 17 Sept with Roche; weather not so bad: 15 cm snow in morning.

27 Sept Mingma and Andre Durieux went down to C2. 27 Sept again came bad weather. Yves Favre and Roche to C2 in slightly bad weather, then down to BC with sirdar same day, 27 Sept. Durieux arrived C2 and that Yves and Durieux go to C1 but 2 Sherpas stay in C2 in tents. C2 was big snowhole and 3 tents.

27-28 Sept night think big avalanche took away entire C2 camp; when C3 people descended later could not find C2 at all (other members coming KTM later this month will go up again and search more for C2). C2 occupants were Pemba Tsering and Ang Nima.

28 Sept think Yves Favre and Durieux in C1; at 10:40 am big avalanche from East summit. BC felt big wind and see big avalanche clouds by doctor, Roche, sirdar and other Sherpas; had to grab tent to hold it.

C1 hit by snow and wind. 3 big tents been there but when those above (Jean-Paul Favre, Girod-Roux and Vion) descended could find no trace of camp.

Those in higher camp came down on 29 Sept; came down to prepare route below, not knowing of deaths (because had no radio) to put in new ropes.

Others still at BC will spend 4-5 days (while waiting for porters) looking for bodies and will arrive KTM 15 Oct; leave BC 5 or 6 Oct.

Vion stays KTM same days, probably wait for others.

Before camping we know Annapurna is dangerous from avalanche. Because of this danger did not want to climb wrong way. For this reason put C2 distant from mountain; "it was not possible to do better" in locating C2 from avalanche dangers.


Yves Favre - 12 Aug 81

Route different from Italians (see expedition post card in which Italian route in blue); Italian avalanche at C2 bed bottom of card.

Only others on Northwest Buttress were Dutch in 1977 who went up a bit and then abandoned.

2 arrived 10 Aug; others arrived 17 leave KTM about 20-23 Aug for Pokhara; arrived BC in 12 days.

BC - 4300-4400m on North Annapurna Glacier
C2 - 5400m
C3 - 6300m
C4 - 7000m
C5 - 7500m or higher

Most difficult: rock overhang above C4, but no danger here. Danger is from avalanches on lower part.
3-4 Sherpas above BC. Medical oxygen only
Arrived BC 2-3 Sept
Summit 10 Oct