원정 개요

Parmentier - 8 Nov 81

Route was SW Face route of 1955 British BC to C3. Then on final days climb, an ice gully goes to top and French went to right of this gully too soon (wanted to get out into sunshine because it was very cold) and had hard rock climbing from 8000m.


Parmentier - 7 Nov 81

All arrived KTM yesterday evening (except doctor who left expedition early as planned).

BC - 5340m -12 Sept
C1 - 6100m -20 Sept
C2 - 7100m -25 Sept (storm)
C3 - 7600m - 4 Oct

5 climbed together. 1st time at C2 on 4 Oct, next 3-4 days later but too early to be sure to reach top. Went down to BC to rest, sleep and eat and be ready to try for top without oxygen. Were very tired after 2 carries in deep snow to C2. Weather became good and on 11th ready to go. 5 men ready to go, 5 men went up. Pallet, Berruex, Gaby and 2 Sherpas were to try with or without oxygen. All well acclimatized and Parmentier and Ricouard reached C2 easily but all were really at end of strength. Reached C3 together on 11th. Started for top 1:00 am on 15th in cloudless weather. 1 hour later too cold: Parmentier lost feeling in fingers and toes and wanted to return to camp but Ricouard did not agree: massaged themselves and then went on. Used right (best) way but kept on; 7:00 am, sun came out and rock climbing went well. At 200m from top Ricouard said too tired to go on but Parmentier urged him on. Parmentier and Ricouard went to top at 3:00 pm stayed only 10 minutes because very cold.

Ricouard and Parmentier very close friends in Paris, like brothers. Embraced each other in happiness on reaching top. "Now we have to go very slowly because of summit stupid to have accident" (Ricouard's last words). Ricouard went ahead in gully and Parmentier fell little, did not know when Ricouard was gone; found his pick and thought it a joke but did not find him at C3 at 6:00 pm return. Parmentier in good condition. Next morning Sherpas came up to C3 thinking he knew Ricouard had fallen 1000m between C2 and C3 and body completely broken. Body to be put in crevasse but legs pulled and came separated so covered with snow. At BC carved stone in memory with name and date of death next to stones of '05 Swiss and 2 Mexicans Alex Pache.

Took Parmentier 2 days to get down to BC because of fear of own accident. Others were not acclimatized and after accident made no attempt. Was an expedition of friends and not expensive. Paid by themselves. Now even better friends.

Oxygen never used; had 8 old bottles half full.


Sharma, Tourism - 26 Oct 81

Jean-Jacques Ricouard, 1952, journalist and climber, Paris
5 climbing members.

Ricouard and Michel Parmentier reached summit on Oct 15 without oxygen. Expedition had established C3 at 7700m Oct 4. While descending from summit, Ricouard slipped just below top and fell 300m and was dead. Oct 16 body was left just below summit of Kangchenjunga. Not clear whether body reached and or buried. Leaving BC Oct 21.


Ricouard - 17 Aug 81

2 members arrived tomorrow, 4 arrived yesterday
Leave KTM 22 to 24 August by road to Ilam
Wwalk via Taplejung in 18 days trek (20 days KTM->BC).

Route = SW Face 1955 British. Long route for 5 French climbers and 2 Sherpas above BC; if successful will be 1st autumn ascent of Kangchenjunga.

BC at 5430m
C1 6500m (C2 of '55)
C2 7300m (temp camp)
C3 7800m (temp camp)
C4 8400m (temp camp)

Mixed logistics of high and heavy expedition
Previously used oxygen bottles only
Arrived BC about 11 Sept
Summit we hope at 15 Oct but probably 20-25 Oct.