원정 개요

Lauchlan - 13 Oct 81

Nuptse 7-member team: We were in striking position when Scots arrived and were very angry Canadians were there. Scots would not agree to joining forces, but were obviously not capable of the climb. Then big storm wiped out supplies.

Elzinga and Lauchlan hung around waiting to see if face okay for alpine-style ascent of 1961 route. Started climbing 8th Oct and got 21,000 feet in one day, gave up after losing enthusiasm. No accidents or frostbite.

Elzinga arrive KTM in about a week.


March (& McNab) - 7 Oct 81

BC 5200m 5 Sept
ABC 5500m 9 Sept
C1 6100m 18 Sept

March, McNab and Congdon arrived KTM today. When got to BC, South Face route not reasonable, too dangerous: fracture lines where ridge hit face and in upper section of face and snow slopes avalanching. Then looked at route up of face and fixed 600 feet of it. Stone fall so bad that would take out ropes after 9:00 am (could safely climb earlier).

Knew Scottish team had West Ridge but no sign of them so asked Ministry for permit to SW Buttress to West Ridge. Put 4200 feet fixed rope up buttress. Were almost to point on ridge where would put C2; ministry had said okay if Americans agreed. Scots turned up and said would wait 8 days for ministry clarification and got message not permitted.

Enormous rock buttress came down in great storm of lot of wet snow which froze - avalanche arrived 30 Sept: 3/4 mix 1/4 mile: 1 million tons rock with boulders size of Yellow Pagoda dining room. All in BC when it happened. Went back up: nearly all mountain food gone, same personal clothing, all helmets lost from rock slide also bit snow avalanche came down colouir between SW Buttress and rock that came away. Took down equipment on buttress to stockpile it for Everest.

Elzinga and Lauchlan may try alpine-style ascent of Britons 1961 route after buying helmets and salvaging enough food. Would be trying about now if Elzinga's wife doesn't deflect them.

Baillie left couple days before rock slide and Scots' arrival; saw writing on wall.

High point reached 21,000 feet 28 Sept by Lauchlan and Skreslet.
Skreslet is in Pheriche now with girlfriend.
No accidents.

Tremendous amount of rock and ice falling constantly. Buttress quite hard climbing and steep. Excellent approach to West Ridge: safest and fastest approach to Ridge. Scots are on other side of ridge from "suicide gully."

All members got along together extremely well. March not sure he will come to Everest in 1982; doesn't like avalanche danger on him.


Jim Elzinga (Nuptse leader) - 17 Aug 81

Route will be more direct than that of Britons 1961 and 1975
a) from BC to Brits C4 eliminating 1 Camp
b) from Brits' C7 to summit
b) will get technical climbing of kind will encounter next year on Everest.
All Nuptse members are to come to Everest next year.
Leave KTM tomorrow