원정 개요

BC 13 Sept - 17,220 ft
C1 17 Sept - 20,000 ft same altitude as AMREE
C2 20 Sept - 21,000 ft (camp next to AMREE)
C3 24 Sept - 23,000 ft just below shoulder's top
C4 2 Oct - 24,600 ft on West Ridge

Route: thru Khumbu Icefall and into Western Cwm, then up West Shoulder (same as US 1963) and onto North Face and into Couloir.

Highest point reached was 25,000-25,500 feet in Hornbein Couloir on 5 Oct. 2 New Zealanders and 2 Sherpas trying to get to C5 and make summit push 26,200 feet. Next day but very windy as had been since 28 Sept and gave up. 150 mph wind at C3 where more during stormy 28th might blow tent and couldn't sleep, holding tent. 6 Oct went from C4 to BC in one day. Sent Sherpas back up on 8 Oct to clear C2; storm of 28th flattened C2.

"Felt were getting into shit, we weren't looking after Sherpas good enough" and were making it so hard ourselves, wasn't safe for Sherpas if they slipped. Sherpas not able enough to climb above without fixed ropes."

Brice and Freaney got frosted up slightly on day of storm.

Never used oxygen although had it with them in C4 and were taking it to C5 for Freaney to use above C5; no accidents. Not technically difficult, "just gut-busting."

C4 7500m 2 Oct; could not go beyond camp because high wind so descended to BC 7 Oct; abandoned 6 Oct. C4 made by 2 members and 2 Sherpas; good health.


Brice - 17 Aug 81

Arrived 15th, leave KTM 20 or 21 Aug and walk to Khumbu arrived BC about 12 or 13 Sept.

Will have 4 or 5 camps above BC regardless of route. Prefer climb through Icefall and then up shoulder if Americans agree. Would mean not having difficult climb to Lho La and Sherpas can go higher. 4-5 weeks climbing; won't be able to last much longer. Will go via Hornbein Couloir in both directions probably.

If the weather is kind one maybe will get there but one chances are not very great.