원정 개요

BC - 16,600 - 14 Sept
C1 - 19,500 - 18 Sept 1st loads arrived and 20 Sept first occupied
C2 - 20,200 - set up on 24 Sept first occupied after storm 2 Oct
C3 - 21,000 - 4 Oct

Summit by Tuckey, Michaud and Johnston 5 Oct and back 10 pm to C3; 6 Oct down to BC.

Neptune started up with 3 to C1 on 3 Oct. Morr and Burleson went down on 6th; Morr fearful of danger, Burleson reason not known. Greene and Neptune to C2 on 6 Oct, then Greene got very sick and both went down again 7 Oct.

8 Oct all to Pangboche for rakshi party.

9 Oct all left except Greene, Simmonds and Neptune who went back to BC to clean things up at least.

10 Oct Neptune to C2
11 Oct Neptune to C3
12 Oct Neptune to summit and back to C3
13 Oct Neptune to BC
14 Oct Neptune and Greene to C2 and cleared it all and back to BC
15 Oct left BC

Simmonds went only to C1 because of old knee injury that suddenly flared up.

Neptune went up ropes fixed by 1st team up to C2. Above C2 ran out of rope, so nothing fixed and at "mushroom ridge" had to decide whether go on up or not: went up. Lots of loose rotten snow made tiring climbing.

Route same as Frost route on 1980.

All Ok except Karen Simmond's knee.


Neptune - 2 Aug 81

2 on 3-5 Sept and 2 maybe later
6 now in KTM; they had hoped to leave 26th but baggage not yet here
18 days to BC

Route = South Ridge, same as 1961 etc. BC 15,000 ft or higher if possible.

1 camp at start of ridge at 19,000 ft and probably 2 above that; C3 about 21,000 ft have only 900 ft of rope of all kinds. No oxygen.

2 weeks to climb mountain, but BC to top probably 4 weeks waiting for weather since have little fixed rope and also acclamatizion.

No Sherpas above BC.