원정 개요

Adi Weissensteiner - 29 Oct 81

Pichler went with trek after BC. Adi Weissensteiner led climb of total of 15 members only.
4 Sherpas above BC
BC 4300m - 12 Oct
C1 5050m - 13 Oct

Planned to use Swedish route but out of question because to dangerous from avalanches and crevasses had opened up widely and glacier ready to fall in on itself. Had acclimatization problem with members who had to go down. Once had gained altitude tried going long way to east and around glacier. Went around and made C2 made at 5450m on 17 Oct. Continued looking for route to avoid dangerous area of glacier. Got stuck in upper glacier and went to pillar
found members not prepared for such a climb. Traverse too dangerous and they not acclimatized. 19 Oct stopped attempt. Highest point was 5800m by Adi and Ang Temba on 18 Oct.

No accidents. Summit needs experienced team and cannot be done to time-table. Route was southwest side. Climb abandoned because members were commercial clients not capable of the climb.


Sharma Tourism - 26 Oct 81

Austria Glacier Dome West Ridge abandoned; when not known.
Arrive 30 Oct KTM


Pichler with Dr. Haes

Route = southwest side, same as Swedes 1981 Spring

Pichler and Haas leave KTM 29 Sept; will go well ahead of main party with 3 Sherpas to put in fixed ropes. Will need at least 50m fixed ropes between C1 and C3 so that when main party comes all will be ready for them.

BC at 5400m; 2 [Pichler and Haas] will arrive 4-5 Oct
C2 at or a little above Col between Fluted Peak and Glacier Dome
Main party arrive KTM 4-5 Oct and BC 11 or 12 Oct
Fixed rope in as far as C1 by then; possibly to C2
BC to BC for main party
Only 11 days because clients get bored by 12-24 days
Medical oxygen only
4 Sherpas above BC
Expedition has no name

Total 36 people coming for expedition and around-Annapurna trek. All go to BC and then decide who actually climbs and who treks. About 20 will climb; maybe 18, maybe 21. Pichler has injured knee; he may actually lead trek and his wife climb or vice versa.