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Messner - 7 Oct 81

Left BC 3rd Oct
Climbed Chamlang from North Face to middle summit about 7000m on about 26 Sept:
Ang Dorje
Sirdar Pasang
Doug Scott
Reinhold Messner


Left BC 13 Sept
Arrived C1 23 Sept
Arrived ABC 24 Sept
Mid-summit and back to ABC - 26 Sept
ABC to East Col and below 27th returned BC 28th.

Doug is trying SE Ridge of Makalu starting about 15 Oct with a Sherpa or Alex MacIntyre if West Face not possible.

Reinhold left BC because of unhappy letters from Nena. Ang Dorje and Nawang Tenzing came with him. With weather bad at end of Sept and acclimatization needed, wouldn't have been able to do Makalu and returned KTM before late Oct. "I have time" to try Makalu same other time.


Doug Scott - 28 Aug 81
Chamlang & Makalu

Chamlang: ABC 5600-5800m in Chamlang Glacier, thence alpine style with fixed rope. 4 days ABC to top and 1 day back to ABC. Depends on snow conditions, might be a bit powdery. Messner joins Chamlang climb.

Arrive BC 12-13 Sept, 15,700 ft.
Arrive Chamlang ABC about 15 Sept and start climb about 20 Sept.

Start Makalu in early Oct from BC and climb in 12 days.
BC to top by southeast and down to BC.
May descend by northwest side thus doing traverse of Makalu.


Messner - 28 Aug 81

Not decided about Sherpas above BC on Makalu - will see.
No oxygen at all.

3 Sherpa members for Chamlang and 2 H-A Sherpa porters with expedition.