원정 개요

Route impossible because almost no snow; difficult rock and ice. Tried to make route to left of American route on SW Face.

BC - 4800m - 25 Sept
C1 - 5300m - 3 Oct

No C2; very difficult route with no place to put camp; only way to climb put in fixed ropes and bivouac on face.

Highest point 6300m 21 Oct by Alonso, San Sebastian, Trabado De La Fuente.

Stopped because difficult route, no food left. Route is possible with more people and equipment. 2 members sick and so 3 members carrying loads every day.

No accidents, frostbite, serious illness (2 sick from stomach trouble and poor acclimatization). Arrived KTM yesterday afternoon.


Javier - 9 Sept 81

Route = SW Face (US 1979 route)
Leave KTM 10 Sept
11-12 days to BC. BC same as US 1979.
Hope climb alpine-style; hope no fixed rope will be needed but have 200m.
6-8 days BC->summit->BC
Have come to KTM from Karakorum (Gasherbrum II) so no need to acclimatize.
Arrive BC 22-23 Sept
If good weather, 15 Oct on top
If bad weather, 31 Oct to 15 Nov
No Sherpas above BC
Oxygen medical only