원정 개요

Col Bohra - 8 June 82

Bohra (leader of Spring 1982 Tilicho expedition) wonders how the Sherpas succeeded as they claim last winter. Bohra's expedition found their tent at C1, but no indication they had been higher. No question of losing route cause there is only one ridge (NE Ridge) to follow from there.


Tilicho North Ridge (all 3 members) - 7 Feb 82

Returned to KTM 4 Feb. Left KTM 9 Jan and reached BC 17th Jan at 4400m only because lot of snow and porters would not go higher. BC below "n" in Mesokantu La on around Annapurna map north-northwest of Tilicho. From there glacier went over a kind of pass southwest of Mesokantu La.

C1 on southeast side of this pass and west of Tilicho Lake near where had intended to put BC. Reached C1 5130m 18th Jan and ferried all loads in 3 days

20 Jan rest day in BC.
21 Jan carried last loads to C1 and looked for route.
22 Jan moved up to new camp at 5630m on NW Ridge.

23 Jan C3 at 6455m across rock ridge on blue ice on west side of ridge and south of C2.

24 Jan to summit up steep small face close to ridge. Started from C3 6:45 am and on top 1:45 pm. Lot of blue ice. Snow falling after 11:30 am and wind. On top about 10 minutes in strong wind; could see only 10m ahead 11:00 to summit. Sure they were on summit because mountain has only one summit, as they saw earlier in climb. Descended to C3 on 24 Jan at 6:00+ pm, nearly dark.

25 Jan couldn't find tent left at C1 because of snow, so on down looking for BC at 8:30 pm, but LO and cook had moved BC, so spent night at its site without tent and not using wet sleeping bags but with mattresses over head probably safe from snow falling but not much from wind.

26 Jan found new BC at 9:00 am not far away. Heavy snow fall that night.

27 Jan left BC. 2 days to Jomsom through very deep snow sometimes ahead as deep at their heights, 5 feet. Moved until late at night. No accidents, frostbite or illness.

All 3 members climbed together all days from 18 to 26 Jan and no one with them above BC.


Tilicho, Ang Sharkey - 5 Jan 82

Porters leave 6 Jan and 3 members leave 9 Jan and catch up with porters at Jomsom. Thence to Kesang Khola and Tilicho La to BC.

Route = North Ridge (normal route)
Arrive BC 17-18 Jan at 17,500 feet.
Will make a C1 about 19,000 feet and 9 days BC to summit if weather is perfect.

Must finish climb by 31 Jan as no permit to climb in Feb. Started organizing expedition late because of trekking job and didn't realize how long paper work would take.

Only 3 above BC. At BC will be LO, cook boy for LO, and mailrunner. No oxygen.

Return to KTM about 15 Feb.