원정 개요

Ron Rutland - 6 Jan 82

All arrived KTM yesterday from Tumlingtar; reached BC 30 Nov at 15,000 feet. Porters refused to go higher despite lack of snow. Left members with lot to do with no Sherpas for carrying loads.

Put on ABC at 17,500 feet 5 Dec; then removed tents and set things up again at C1.
C1 - 19000 ft on 8 Dec on moraine at foot of serac barrier.
C2 - 20,500 ft on Dec 12; again moved same tents; on Chago Glacier on NW Face
C3 at about 22,000 ft on 15 Dec; again on glacier and again same tents moved up

(All camp altitudes approx since Ron no altitude meter). Basically moved four people up and 2 behind. 23,800 ft reached 19 Dec by Linda Rutland, Alan Deakin, Bill Ryan, Ron Rutland
at equipment dump which was to be another camp site; left loads there.

Temperature about -50 degrees and strong westerly winds left you crawling.

Heap and Penman stayed lower because fatigue and altitude sickness.

21 Dec 4 up again. Linda and Ron Rutland again went up with mere equipment on 22 Dec and again dropped back down. Other 2, Deakin and Ryan, didn't go up this time. Ron went a bit higher to have a look in light wind; reached at least 24,000 feet, but again slept lower.

"Now so far from summit, and only 2 (Rutlands) of us operating efficiently thus not viable proposition for the two of us to continue on our own." Left food and gas loads there at 23,000 ft and retreated with equipment loads. Expedition now over.

Had assumed that only early part of Dec would be good weather and gambled on continuous push from what was unfortunately low BC; majority of people ran out of energy. In fact weather for whole of Dec was good and we probably could have afforded to do it in 2 stages, gone to 23,000 feet and dropped back for rest. With winter wind, must consolidate position and than make 2nd push. We learned a lot about equipment in winter. Some equipment (clothing and bag) not adequate, not warm enough. Camps were not snowholes up to camp to-be because wind had blown away suitable snow packing it had, leaving only ice.

No accidents or frostbite; very conscious of vital need to avoid them. Left BC 28 Dec.


Linda Rutland - 13 Nov 81

Route = northwest side standard route

"I reckon we have to climb it 15 Dec or not at all." We moved fast on Annapurna III (in 1979) and we got going.

Linda Rutland and Deakin arrived 8 Nov and rest came 15th Nov; fly to Tumlingtar 18 Nov. Only 25 porters, 1 Sirdar for BC only. Hope to dig snowholes which are warmer, windproof and if enough snow can make them quite big.

BC in used place at 17,000 feet 28-30 Nov

ABC on easy terrain, before Col at about 19,000 feet first before technical climbing begins. This gets loads up glacier and members acclimatized, about a week.

Another week to Col at 24,000 feet; one camp at ABC and Col; both ABC and Col maybe snowholes. "I have been telling everyone Ron will be on top on Christmas Day." Would be 1st British ascent of Makalu.

Walk the mountain in pairs. No oxygen at all.