원정 개요

Deposit biv near lake just north of point 5305m west of BC at Pheriche
Biv 1 on SE Face (loose rock face)
Biv 2 on SE Ridge (left horizon ridge on Seigneur)
Biv 3 on N Face in descent.

The seven-man Sangaku Doshikai party of Tokyo, led by Naoe Sakashita, climbed three 6000ers in the Khumbu Himal in alpine-style pushes. They were: the South Ridge of Cholatse, the SE Face of Tawoche, the West Face and the SW Ridge of Ama Dablam.

1st summit push on 19 April reached 6000m on SE Ridge but (at 2:00 pm) white-out enveloped them and turned back to 5800m bivouac. They descended mountain because teammate Shibuya ill on Cholatse and went to Cholatse [to assist]. Returned to depot 22 April and on 23rd same 4 members started up again and reached 6000m point on ridge. 24th started up at 7:30 am and at 12:20 pm on top via SE Ridge. Face of snow and ice of 60 degrees including a small very steep ridge on North Face which went out to avoid cornices on south side. Used rope on this ridge traverse at 5800m and on 25th back at Pheriche.

All leave KTM 3 April by air to Lukla and arrive Pheriche BC in 4 days on afternoon 6 April.

Arrive Mingbo BC 22 or 23 April. (only 2 hours ex-Pheriche)
5 leave Mingbo BC 29 April, arrive Cho Oyu BC near Gyazumpa on May 2 and
spend 2 weeks on Cho Oyu
5 climbers return KTM 1 May
2 climbers return KTM 20-23 May
2 stay at Tankaku's house.


Sakashita - 2 April 85

Ishibashi leads 1 team to Cholatse while Sakashita others to Tawoche; after there finished, exchange mountains take about 3 weeks for this. Then all 7 move to Mingbo to Ama Dablam West Face. If we pass through in just 1-2 days will be Ok. During recce last year I never saw avalanches; looks risky but somehow stable I think. Hillary party stayed on that route 10 days, but Japanese will have acclimatized on other 2 mountains and Ama Dablam will be so difficult for us. Will not use fix rope; hope for very fast alpine style climb with no ropes (only climbing rope) no tents (3 biv sacks)

An entire climb of 4 mountains; no Sherpas, no oxygen at all, also on all 4 mountains.

Cho Oyu: only Ishibashi and Sakashita (others go home after Ama Dablam). SE Face Australian route or Polish South Pillar. "I pray to the god to find easy safe route. We are Buddhists like Nepali and Tibetans so maybe the god will find us route."

Cholatse: first try North Face but with little time, if route very hard, will change to US or Swiss route; depends on condition of route (whether enough snow or ice on face in spring as autumn best season to climb North Face).

BC at Pheriche with LO and kitchen boy there (no sirdar on expedition).

Tawoche: first look at North Face;if not possible, maybe go for route on SE Face or last year's US-Sakashita route on this face.