원정 개요

There is doubt that 3 men actually reached summit on May 10. They probably stopped, thinking they were at top, at a bump or ledge at about 8700m and performed religious ceremony here instead. Sherpas with 11 May Japanese summiters noted items that were probably used in ceremony at this point and no footprints above it. Others on Everest at same time also expressed doubts on their return and ITBP's advisor at the time, Mohan S. Kohli, said a few months later he agreed the trio had not probably not summited, but since they had gotten to top and then died, there is no question of their claim's being retracted, Kohli said.

The summit party of 10 May was delayed by strong winds, and the 7-man party left their highest camp only at 8:00 am (Indian time, or 8:15 NST). Four in this party turned back at 8500m because of the stormy weather and their exhaustion.

ITBP orginally accused Japanese summiters of 11 May of not going to rescue of any Indian summiters who were still alive as mountaineering ethics require; this charge later withdrawn. Others on mountain saw a facing-saving device for Indians over deaths of their men [could also be result of culture conflict in which Japanese don't interfere if not asked to do so?].

Indian summit success of 10th May very much doubted by:
Taiwanese Leader
Greeks
Germans
Neal Beidleman of Scott Fischer's team
(no one from South Col summiters saw anyone on north side)
Peter Kowalzik - see on return notes of 18 May
Mohan S. Kohli

Charges against Fukuoka Japanese a face-saving device making Japanese as scapegoats? Result of culture conflict in which Japanese don't interfere if not asked to do?

11 May summit - Japanese Sherpas reported found at about 8700m found Lama flags and rock pitons for goods and no footprints above; at about 8700m is point that from North Col looks like summit.

Source: Nawang Yanden, ABC sirdar of Fukuoka expedition - 21 May 96


Captain Mohan Kohli - 5 Aug 96

Kohli agrees that the Indian summit team of 10 May 96 probably did not reach top but stopped at ledge/flat area below it; but they reported they had gained summit and they are dead, so there is no question of retracting their summit claim.


ITBP Everest: German Everest N Leader Wiegand and Urlass - 5 June 96

Stingl and Joup competing to go to top as first Germans have been told by others who heard Indian radio conversation on that a deputy leader of ITBP told Indian summit team when they were at 2nd Step at 6 pm Chinese time to go on to top - doubtful they reached summit since they stll had quite some distance still to go.


Neal Beidleman - 21 May 96
US (Fischer) Everest S summiter on 10 May 96

It would greatly surprise us if any reached summit from North Face on May 10; no one could have summited after 5:00 pm Nepali time in horrendous weather; last summiter from Nepal to leave top was Lobsang Jangbu who left about 4:00 and no one from Nepal reported seeing anyone coming up.

[If summit claim is for 6:00 pm Chinese time = 3:45 Nepal time, claim is obviously not correct].