원정 개요

C1 at North Col
C2 very near North Ridge
C3 on North face (normal route).

Reinhard Wlasich, Akos Koncz and Zsolt Eross started from C1 on May 1; Koncz not feeling well and turned back while other 2 reached and pitched C2. 2 May they down to ABC and rested.

5 May from ABC same 3 men and Mrs Elizabeth Wlasich and went to C1. 6 May 3 men started up from C1 but Koncz and Reinhard Wlasich both not well and strong wind: Zsolt Eross reached C2 alone. 7 May Zsolt made traverse to Great Couloir and reached 8300m in couloir and found old tents too badly damaged to use and dug snowhole for night. 8 May down to C1 to sleep and 9 May to ABC.

Next serious climb was 14 May from ABC by Zsolt and Reinhard and reached C2 on 15 May. Slovenians had left 5 bottles oxygen in Great Couloir, so these 2 had bought oxygen masks from Slovenians, so 16 May they again traversed to Couloir to find and use oxygen but didn't find them (Sherpa maybe moved them) and same day back to C2. 17 May the two went to Indians' C3 and used their tent there at about 8250m. 18 May decided to stay in C3 because bad weather and not in good condition and at 2:00 pm Reinhard became seriously ill (both pulmonary and cerebral edema) and died 1:45 am despite oxygen and medicine from Norwegian doctor coming down from summit. Body left in C3 of Indians - morale low because of death.

31 May - after Wlasich's death no time and no strength and no more motivation to make fresh summit bid. Yaks ordered for 24th. No more climbing except to clean C2 and C1.


S Gangdal- 22 May 96

5 days before Austrian member died (Reinhard Wlasich) started from ABC for Col and 1 Hungarian having planned to climb without oxygen, but after member now fatigued asked other teams for oxygen. On 14 May left Col and J Gangdal got to 7800m and slept there with oxygen, went to Slovenian tent in Great Couloir but no oxygen there so went back to couloir 7800m and slept there - behaved strangely but on 16th went up to 8300m - no camp in 10 hours with Hungarian. 18th May was asked if he going to top and he said going rest (at 8300m without oxygen) and did. Norwegian doctor in summit team called by Hungarian member to see him and clearly badly affected by cerebral edema, doctor gave medicine and oxygen (given by Norwegians sleeping at 8300m and they therefore had none) which resulted in temperature improvement but during night died 18/19 May. Wife hours in ABC at this time (she may come to KTM with Norwegian on 23 May).