원정 개요

C1 at North Col
C2 on North Ridge
C3 on North face
High point on North Face.

Could not get to C3 before 24 May because of no oxygen and strong winds so C3 tent to be taken only for rest and cooking there for few hours if only. On 25th reached 8500m - had not gone to top on 24th helping at C2 Japanese very sick and needed care. On 24th evening climbed to C3 early morning and stayed few hours and then tried for top but turned back at 8500m because with no bottled oxygen and had stayed too long on mountain and too long at C2 helping Japanese. Climb finished.

Oxygen taken only for medical use and used only by Japanese.