원정 개요

Chinese BC at west moraine Rongbuk Glacier
C1 at moraine
C2 on small plateau below North Col
C3 at North Col
C4 on North Ridge (never slept in).

C4 pitched 10th May but strong winds and did not sleep there but went North Col and next day to BC. 18th May to C2, 19 May to C3. 20 May three members alpine-style attempt to reach top from Col to 7500m and other 2 same high point at 7800m [then stopped] because of strong wind and clouds (and no oxygen and Sherpas) and back to BC where snowing in evening.

Oxygen not used "for ethics." Needed and used skis up and down section of route below C3 to cross crevasses. Were alone on West Rongbuk Glacier; all other teams camped on east side of North Col.

Only 2 members wanted to go to Great Couloir, but outvoted by other 5; but because of [original] plan to go to couloir pitched BC on West Rongbuk Glacier.