원정 개요

BC at Mingbo Glacier near Hillary airstrip
Biv1 at bottom of West Face
Biv2 on face
Biv3 on face above hanging glacier
Biv4 on SW Ridge after summit success.

The seven-man Sangaku Doshikai party of Tokyo, led by Naoe Sakashita, climbed three 6000ers in the Khumbu Himal in alpine-style pushes. They were: the South Ridge of Cholatse, the SE Face of Tawoche, the West Face and the SW Ridge of Ama Dablam.

Had deep fresh snow. May be possible in one day to climb face from biv at 5900-5400m to summit via face route if in good health and no deep snow. On this face climb Yagi had stomach trouble which meant low 1st biv and slow progress next day - carried 2 days food.

Quick climb (contrasted with Peter Hillary's) required "an idea, a plan." Messner or Roskelley would not want to stay a week on that face.

4th May Ishibashi killed in fall for unknown reasons while descending. Ariaka some frostbite but not very serious. Was cold weather and he was weak.

No avalanching - saw none at all even with fresh snow.


Sakashita - 14 May 85

28th reached Ama Dablam BC.

29th Ariake and Sakashita attempted W Face; biv at 5100m; Ishibashi, Toyoda and Yagi to attempt SW Ridge same day.

In this season lot of new snow on both ridge and face (20 cm), bad conditions.

West Face-SW Ridge Traverse:
29 Apr - Ariake and Sakashita biv at 5100m
30 Apr - Sakashita and Ariake reached 6250m on face. Ariake had stomach trouble
and ate nothing on 29th but decided nonetheless to go up face but very
slow. Used no rope, no tent, no sleeping bag, joint bivy sack.
1 May - traversed face to night almost same route as Peter Hillary route,
6550m biv, no gas left, so no tea.
2 May - 10:20 am reached summit from face, beautiful day. Biv at 6050m
(again no hot drink) on SW Ridge.
3 May - Sakashita and Ariake to BC via ridge. Ariake same frostbite but not serious.

SW Ridge:
29 Apr - Ishibashi, Toyoda and Yagi reached 5600m on SW Ridge. Went to ridge
cause face too dangerous for all to go up it. Must move quickly and
need experience.
30 Apr - 6050m Ishibashi and Toyoda reached on ridge while Yagi turned back
with tooth trouble and allergic.
1 May - 6100m on long difficult ridge
2 May - 6500m
3 May - summit to biv at 5950m
4 May - 7:00 am walkie-talkie contact from Ishibashi. They too had no drink and
food last night because stove broken. Will start descent Ishibashi said.
Used same rope for couple of pitches. Vertical rock face even
overhanging 2-3m, very difficult. Ishibashi below led and suddenly he
had disappeared. 2 hours after left biv Ishibashi fell. 12:20 pm Toyoda
arrived BC and reported accident. Exhausted same day Yagi and Sakashita
went up SW Ridge to 5600m.
5 May - 10:00 and 11:00 am reached accident point at 5900m where Toyoda had left
backpack. Toyoda saw red dot on W Face icefall which was Ishibashi. 2
now returned to BC.
6 May - Sakashita Yagi, Toyoda and Dr Stefan Goldberg went to icefall (very
difficult) and found big crevasses between body and selves so couldn't
reach body. Snowstorm forced retreat to BC.
7 May - Up again via rock ridge and down to crevasses and found body at 5300m
ond skull broken (died immediately after fall). Sakashita and Toyoda
wrapped his body and carried it down.
8 May - Brought body to BC.
9 May - Cremated body with Thyangboche Lama, Sherpas, Goldberg present.
Brought bones for family.
10 May - All left BC.


Sakashita - 2 April 85

Ishibashi leads one team to Cholatse while Sakashita others to Tawoche. After these finished, exchange mountains. Take about 3 weeks for this. Then all 7 move to Mingbo to Ama Dablam W Face. If we pass through in just 1-2 days will be Ok. During recce last year Irawa saw avalanches. Looks risky but somehow stable I think. Hillary party stayed on that route 10 days but Japanese will have acclimatized on other two mountains and Ama Dablam will not be so difficult for us. Will not used fixed ropes. Hope for very fast alpine-style climb with no ropes (only climbing rope), no tents (3 biv sacks).

On entire climb of 4 mountains, no Sherpas, no oxygen at all also on all 4 mountains.

Cho Oyu only Ishibashi and Sakashita (others go home after Ama Dablam). SE Face Australian route or Poles S Pillar. "I pray to the god to find it easy, safe." We are Buddhist like Nepali and Tibetans so maybe the god will find us route?

Cholatse: first try N Face but with little time, if route very hard will change to US or Swiss route. Depends on condition of route (whether enough snow or ice on face in spring - autumn best season to climb N Face).

BC at Pheriche. LO and kitchen boy there (no sirdar on expedition).

Tawoche: first like N Face. If not possible, maybe for route on SE Face or last year US - Sakashita route on this.

All leave KTM 3 April by air to Lukla and arrive Pheriche BC in 4 days on Afternoon 6 April.

Arrive MBC 22 or 23 April (only 2 hours ex-Pheriche). 5 leave BC 29 April
arrive Cho Oyu BC near Gyazumpa on May 2 and spend 2 weeks on Cho Oyu.
5 climbers return KTM 1 May
2 climbers return KTM 20-23 May
2 stay at Tamkaku's house
For myself it is necessary to do new things - style, way of thinking philosophy must be new. So we carry no tent, use biv sack in Bangkok airport (very cold because of air-conditioning).