원정 개요

High point at North Ridge.

23 May 5:00 pm 4 left ABC for North Col arrived 8:00 pm; 22nd 2 Sherpas had gone to Col and on 23rd they went to 7700m with tent and food and pitched tent there. After an hours rest at Col, Kammerlander left Col at 9:00 pm and joined Sherpas at 7700m at 11:30 pm. 1:30 am of 24th Kammerlander left tent and went non-stop to summit with 1 pair skis, 1 liter tea, headlamp and spare batteries; no food, no reserve clothing or other covering. Arrived at top at 9:35 am. From 8500m to 8600m felt like drunk and from 8600m was much better with fresh wind and warmer: "super day." Summit panorama "unimaginably beautiful," despite being tired immensely. Great Couloir not possible to ski down because all rock and ice so descended normal route which had ascended. Other 3 members stayed at Col to film and take still pictures Kammerlander and went down from Col when Kammerlander did. Kammerlander could not ski some rock sections: did not ski about vertical 250 m total. Left summit 10:30 am 24th and arrived ABC about 4:30 pm with few rests of 10-30 minutes each including tea at Sherpas tent at 7700m an at Col camp. "Not so fine" passing Indian bodies at 8500m, 8550m and 8600m. Doesn't claim solo ascent since others were on mountain and used others fixed ropes. Claims fastest ascent and round trip and possible first ascent of highest and lowest 8000m in same climb. Had reached Xixabangma on summit on 9th May alone, one day after others from his team had gone to same top, which was not highest.

Skis weighed 1 kg each complete; 1m 60cm long

* left ABC 23 May at 5:00pm
on smt 24 May at 9:45am
back in ABC 24 May at 4:30pm

Total time elapsed 23 hrs 30 minutes