원정 개요

BC lower than many
C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4A in uncomfortable site so moved camp.

First to Pumori on Mazur's expedition and reached top on 28th April with Pearson. Then to Everest/Lhotse BC for Lhotse climb on Mazur's Lhotse expedition. Spent 2 days in C2 because lot of wind. [Pearson] with Steve Koch and Tim Horvath to C3 8 May. 9 May then went to 7800m and pitched C2 there and slept there. 10th Pearson and Horvath very cold so they did not go for top but Chantal did climbing alone (no Sherpas on this expedition), reached top at 2:00 pm or so, about 6 hours after leaving C4; very cold and very windy but Mauduit very warmly clothed; took photos at top (did not go to top of cornice, stopped 5 to 10m below it, but is sure she reached this height. Took 2 ice axes to be safe. Slept that night in C3 not needing to use headlamp because could come down fixed ropes, but was dark when reached C3 at 7:00 pm or so. Down to BC with fall into pool of water in icefall and lost way; arrived very tired maybe 8:00 pm. Used no oxygen at all.

Ed Viesturs, Breashears Everest climbing leader 3 June 96:

Viesturs saw Mauduit go into gully and return so soon as to cast doubt on her having gone to top; her sponsors would be pressing hard for her to succeed since her failure on Everest last year [and before].

BUT

Pratt - 26 May 98

Viesturs account of Mauduit's not summitting Lhotse is "dead rubbish." She was climbing with 2 others and they saw her go into couloir at 10:00 am. Viesturs may have seen two go into cloud and one must have been Dave Sharman from Pratt's team who was also wearing yellow jacket. Chantal was back in C4 at 5:30 pm in cloudy weather and Pratt and Sharman were in C4 then. She described route in unusual snow conditions which Pratt found 10 days later and he took same amount of time as she.


10th May Chantal made summit push from C4A at 8:30 am (this confirmed by others in camp) and reported she summited [see Mauduit on Return form] and the times are within realm of possible and she went fast to C4A and wind tends to push one up couloir. 11th May Pratt and Sharman went for top but turned back at 8000m. 21st May Mazur and Shaw from C4B to 7900m at 1:00 pm arrived too late and tired. 22 May Pratt and Darsney from C4B to very top of cornice and took photos at 3:30 pm and 4:00 pm respectively and back to C4B. 23 May Mazur alone to just below cornice, about 5m below top at 4:30 pm; started from C3 at 2:00 am and next to C3 at 11:45 pm (not to C4B because tent had been removed) couloir really easy although old fixed ropes helpful.