원정 개요

17th May Jesus and Kropp BC to C2. 18th C2 to C4 and they made new C4. 19th stayed C4 to wait for good weather without winds. 20th to C2 because of strong wind. 21st rested C2. 22nd up to C4 in good weather by Jesus, Kropp and (at Kropp's invitation) Ang Rita together via Pillar again. 22nd slept in C4 5 hours and left C4 23rd 01:30 hrs to go to summit and back to C4 - arrived at summit 13:00 hours together, not long after Renard and his 2 Sherpas and then IMAX (Breashears) team - good weather but on summit little wind and cold. 24th slept in C2 and 25th BC. Paid Duff to wax his fixed rope 7000 to 7800m.

Ang Rita carried loads for Kropp's photographers and then stayed on for Kropp and his video camera - for summit day, 23rd, Martinez shared half of Ang Rita's pay.

"No good weather" - only 1-3 May good weather 2/3 May midnight Jesus Martinez and Kropp went from C4 for summit (Antonio stayed C4 because had not good distance vision and bad cough); reached 8400m together; at 8400m Jesus Martinez decided 11:00 am now too late for summit in hip-deep snow and slow progress (now on SE Ridge route since 8100m) so he turned back and reached C4 at 2:00 pm. Goran went on up alone this day (3 May) to 8700m, little below S Summit, at 2:00 pm and then he too to C4 (at 6:00 pm) very tired. 4th May two brothers C4 to BC while Kropp stayed at C4 still very tired; reached BC 6th May (slept C2 5th May). 9th May 2 brothers to C2 (Kropp not); 11th May to C3; 12th Nay to 7800m but very windy and tent at C4 already gone with wind; not possible to continue so down to BC same day and for Antonio climb finished; he left BC 14th May while Jesus stayed at BC with Kropp and Malcolm Duff members hoping to try for top on 21st May via South Col.