원정 개요

Jorgensen and Boukreev were only members who actually went for Lhotse summit. Went from Everest C3 (at 7300m). Jorgensen left C3 at 6:00 am of 17th climbed into couloir and at top of couloir, 50 vertical meters from top, turned back at 5:40 pm because was cold, strong wind and no fixed rope in place and wanted to go down in day light; down to sleep in C3 at 9:00 pm about 2 hours before Boukreev arrived.

Boukreev: although he was very tired from Everest crisis of 10th-11th May and work as guide, he decided to try to summit Lhotse. Left BC at 8:30 pm on 16th May, took an hours rest in C2 drinking tea, left C2 12:30 am on 17th, arrived at C3 at 4:30 am, rested, left C3 at 8:00 am, climbed up couloir where there were many old ropes; wind started up while he was in couloir; reached 5-10 meters below summit at 5:46 pm on 17th; stopped just below highest point because could not stand up safely against wind. Slept in C3.


Duff - 30 May 1996

Horrex and Jones were the only members of his expedition (who were on Henry Todd's Lhotse permit) who made for Lhotse, but they got no higher than C3 on West Face around 21-23 April, developed bronchial chest infection and went down to BC. They started up again on 6th May, reached C3 on 8th, spent 2 nights there, got same infection and went down again. No Sherpas climbed with them, but 2 Sherpas pitched their C3 tents in mid-April (Sherpas did not sleep there). Trueman and Duff did not attempt to reach C3 on Lhotse Face.