원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face (reached 28 April but not slept in)
C4 at South Col
High point at South Col.

10th May summit party all members except Benedikt and 5 Sherpas to C3 planning summit bid 12th May. But 5:00 am on 11th learned on radio system that up to 18 people unaccounted for or known stranded, so Athans and Burleson only went up to C4 to help in rescue work while Williams left at C3 to look after clients and set up medical aid station there (clients went down to C2 on 12th). Weathers arrived at Col at 5:00 pm and Athans and Burleson able to get him stabilized and got him dressed next day and escorted him down to C2 afternoon became clear weather wasn't improving and more help not coming up - everybody down 13 May BC from all teams.

Another summit bid mounted on 16th, when next to C1 and 17th to C2: this party were Athans, Bridges, Corfield, Burleson, Williams and 5 Sherpas - stayed at C2 till 21st looking at wind and testing mood of remaining clients and realizing season coming to end with monsoon snows could come early. 2 clients mood not strong for continuing climbs and leaders didn't want to expose them and Sherpas to deteriorating Icefall and heavy snowfall. Made wrong decision to stop perhaps, but "were conservative." Cataclysm of 10th May causing Athans to reconsider his job as guide.