원정 개요

C1 higher than others this spring
C2 in Weestern Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face (not Imax team)
C4 at South Col
High point at bottom of Hillary Step.

C4 pitched 20th April but not occupied till 3rd May because of winds and everyone said early May is best time for summit, so rested in C2 and BC.

1st attempt for top: 2nd May in C3 and 3rd May C4, left C4 4th May for summit bid by all 6 climbers and 2 Sherpas. But weather not good, Sherpas very tired from carrying loads and this factor plus strong winds led party to turn back 200m above Col and down to C3 and next day to C2.

Last attempt C4 arrival about 4:00 pm on 8th May: Stolica, Lalovic, Vujicic and 3 Sherpas in first bid for top via South Col route; left 1:30 am 9th May and reached just below Hillary Step at 1:00 pm; very deep snow here and strong winds now blowing and low cloud and started now to snow; turned back at 8800m and back in C4 only 10:00 pm battling strong wind, could see very short distance (clouds) and very tired next day to C2 and climb finished.

Ang Tshering, Dorje and Lhakpa Sonam saved life of of five who sat down at 8300m and had to be short-roped and guided and bought to C4; oxygen finished.